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Extracts from the 







C. LOBENSTINE 




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Copyright N"- 

COPWIGHT DKPOSrr. 



EXTRACTS FROM THE DIARY OF 
WILLIAM C. LOBENSTINE 




V/ILLIA/A C. LOBENSTINE 



Extracts from the Diary of 

William C. Lobenstine 

December 31, 1851-1858 



Biographical Sketch by 
Belle W. Lobenstine 



Printed Privately 
1920 






Copyright 1920 by 
Belle W. Lobenstine 



CCT 18 1920 
©CIA597827 



In Loving Memory of 

My Father 
William C. Lobenstine 

That those of us who follow after 
may honor and love his memory and 
live worthy of his name 



FOREWORD 

This book does not in any sense purport to be 
a biography. Often during Father's Hfetime, on 
our long walks together or during long quiet 
evenings at home, he would tell of his early 
life, repeating over and over certain incidents 
which had impressed him deeply and so — 
when after he had gone we found among his 
papers two closely written diaries bound in 
calf, telling of his trip to California and the 
return from there — it seemed most natural to 
work over these diaries, to try to make out their 
closely penciled pages and, when that was 
done, with as few changes as possible, to pub- 
lish these, together with a brief sketch of his 
early life and a few explanatory notes, for his 
family, friends, and any others who may be 
interested in these early experiences of one who 
came seeking the best in this country. 

The construction has been left unchanged 
and is very suggestive of the German, while 
the use of words, if at times inaccurate and 
somewhat flowery, is remarkable when one 
considers that but three years before he had 
come to this country an immigrant boy, know- 
ing no English whatever. He was constantly 
reading, both books and the daily papers (has 
spoken often of how, later on, he took the 



New York Tribune to study the editorials by 
Horace Greeley), and then trying to use the 
new words which he found — doubtless keeping 
his diary partly for that purpose. On the 
whole it would seem that he has succeeded in 
making his thoughts remarkably clear. Some 
of these are very characteristic of him as we 
knew him in later years — but in religious mat- 
ters he had reacted from the despotism of a 
strong established church and of a narrow- 
minded bigotry without as yet knowing the 
deep personal religious experience which was 
afterwards his. As to his political views — it 
is hard to believe that they were written in 
1852 when they might equally well have been 
expressed at any time since 1914. 

Belle Willson Lobenstine 



INTRODUCTION 

Christian Lobenstine or William C. Loben- 
stine, as he called himself later on in this 
country, was born in Eisfeld, Dukedom of 
Meiningen, on November eighth, eighteen hun- 
dred and thirty-one. He was the youngest in 
his family. The others were Theodore, Caroline, 
Frederic, Bernard, Dorothea, Georgia, and 
Henry. They were the children of Johanne 
Andreas and of Elizabeth Lobenstein. 

His father and older brothers were tanners 
and also farmers. Of the brothers, Theodore, 
the eldest, seems to have been the most lovable, 
always kind to his younger brothers and sisters. 
Father always spoke very affectionately of him. 
Frederic, on the other hand, the first of the 
boys to come to this country, was stern and 
rather arbitrary to the other members of the 
family. These, and Henry who also came to 
this country, together with his father and his 
mother, whose gentleness and care he never 
forgot, were the only ones of whom he ever 
spoke. 

The earliest known incident of his life, and 
one to which he often referred, came when he 
was about seven years old. He, with other 
children, was playing by a stream near the tan- 
nery, and he fell in. It was early spring and 



the waters were swollen by melting snows so 
that he was carried down stream very rapidly. 
His friends ran along the banks with grappling 
hooks trying in vain to reach him. Finally, 
however, the stream ran under a bridge and 
here Theodore ran out and with one of the great 
hooks used in handling hides in the tanyard, 
caught him by the buttonhole of his vest. 
He was unconscious but they were able to 
bring him to and carried him to an uncle who 
had an inn near by. After a night's rest, they 
took him home, none the worse for his adven- 
ture. 

As he grew older he became ambitious for 
a good education and one day while working 
in the fields with his father, mustered up cour- 
age to ask him to send him away to school, 
and won his consent. He studied three years 
and a half at the Real Gymnasium in Meiningen. 
His life was one of the simplest and hardest. 
He had an attic room with some townspeople 
and ate his midday meal with them. His break- 
fasts and suppers consisted of a jug of water 
and a big piece of the rye bread of the country 
with butter. Once in a while, his family would 
send him down a ham. He kept his cot at the 
window so that he might be awakened by the 
first rays of the rising sun and begin to study, 
for he always worked hard for what he got and 
was an earnest, faithful student rather than a 
brilliant one. He kept, however, on the highest 



bench all the way through common school and 
also ranked well in the gymnasium. 

After leaving school, he studied for nearly a 
year with a country doctor, a relative of his, 
going about with him and assisting in many 
ways, but developed no liking for the profes- 
sion and so gave it up and, together with his 
brother Henry, decided to come to America 
whither Frederic had already gone. This was 
in eighteen hundred and forty-nine, when a 
new spirit was abroad in Germany and when 
people looked to this country both as a land of 
freedom and also as a place where one could 
almost literally pick up gold and silver on the 
streets. At that time it was the rule in Meiningen 
that upon emigrating, you forfeited all rights 
and claims upon that Government and before 
leaving he went to the Castle and signed papers 
giving up all rights of German citizenship. 
He left Germany with the definite idea of 
settling in the United States, making it his 
permanent home and becoming a part of this 
new country. From the first, therefore, he 
chose to associate with Americans and to use 
the English language rather than keep up his 
German associations. 

Coming to this country from Havre to New 
York on a sailing ship was a long and hard jour- 
ney of fifty-three days and by the end of that 
time, what with the hardships and poor fare, 
many of the passengers were down with cholera. 



Father, among others, was taken to quarantine, 
which was a very different place from what it 
is now. While many were dying in the hospital 
— and he was taken to the ward where all the 
very worst cases were — he did not believe that 
he was very ill or going to die. Watching what 
was going on he saw them take one patient 
after another and dump them into a bath with- 
out changing the water and finally they started 
for him. This was too much, and he jumped up 
and ran back into another ward where the less 
serious cases were. Here they let him stay 
until he was able to leave the hospital. He had 
expected to find the people of this country living 
in great ignorance, and came expecting to 
teach, but he was adaptable and finding that 
such services were not required from him, a 
young immigrant lad, he quickly turned to 
other things. 

He went first to Wheeling, where his brother 
Frederic was in the leather business, and worked 
for him about a year. Then he took to steam- 
boating on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. 
During the next two years he was first cabin 
boy and later steward and had many stories 
to tell of his various experiences. Once the 
steamer upon which he was steward — through 
a mistake in signals — struck another amidships 
and cut her in two. Fortunately, the few passen- 
gers on board were saved, before she sank. 
Another time, as he went into the kitchen to 



give an order to the cook, that individual, 
more drunk than sober, proceeded to grab up 
a carving knife and run Father out of the 
kitchen. There was much gambhng at poker 
on these river steamers which Father saw con- 
stantly. Also much crooked work. One day a 
man left the table and asked another to take 
his hand for a few moments. This fellow lost 
some money and wished to repay it, but was 
not allowed to. So the others gradually drew 
him into the game and cleaned him out. Another 
time a man gambled his all (he had come on 
board with a good pile of money) and when he 
lost he grabbed up his money bag, ran to the 
deck of the steamer, and before any one could 
stop him — jumped overboard. Whether he 
reached the shore no one knew. Probably, 
however, he was drowned in the turbid waters 
of the Mississippi. These incidents, together 
with what he saw while in California, always 
gave Father a strong prejudice against cards, 
which he associated almost inevitably with 
gambling and all its evils. 

After two years of this life, he decided to seek 
his fortune in the Far West, and his diary tells 
much of these days. A few other details of 
which he spoke may however be of interest. 

The emigrant party as it started from Pitts- 
burgh consisted of about forty men and ten 
wagons. They shipped their wagons down the 
Mississippi and up the Missouri to St. Joseph 



where they bought forty oxen. In Father's 
wagon was Captain Speers, a river pilot with 
whom Father had worked while steamboating. 
He was a farmer's son who knew about cattle. 
There was also a business man named Logan 
from Allegheny City. He was a strong Christian 
man, the only one in the party who carried a 
Bible and his life and death (for it was he whose 
death is mentioned in the diary) made a pro- 
found impression on Father. One evening as 
they sat at supper, Logan put down his cup 
saying, "I don't feel well," and went into his 
tent to lie down. There was a doctor in the 
party who did what he could, but the next 
morning at four Logan was dead — of cholera. 
They buried him there on the prairie, wrapped 
in a buffalo robe with a mound of stones over 
the grave and sent the little Bible back to his 
wife. On this whole trip Father was the cook 
for his mess and he has always claimed that he 
made a splendid one. The men of each wagon 
seem to have camped together and had their 
own mess. When night came the ten wagons 
were arranged in a circle — the tongue of one 
against the back of the next — and after the 
cattle had been allowed to graze till midnight, 
they were corralled within this circle. 

Father's mates while mining were Captain 
Speers, McElrey, and Evans. Their camp was 
back in the mountains quite close to the border 
of Nevada, with Sacramento as their nearest 



city, where they went for suppHes. Their claim 
was located several hundred feet above the 
level of the creek, so in order to get water they 
had to go back into the mountains fifteen miles. 
They had a surveyor survey the line and then 
these four men, not one of whom was a mechanic 
and all but one town bred, went to work to 
bring down water. In the first place they built 
a dam. Then they brought the water down hill 
and in one place bridged a valley two hundred 
feet wide. Their form of mining was called 
gulch mining. They built flumes or long boxes 
with enough fall for the water to run slowly 
and into these they dumped the pay dirt. The 
water would wash away the earth while they 
stood and tossed out stones, etc. Finally, after 
running through several boxes, the earth was 
all washed away, leaving only the heavy gold, 
which was collected by quicksilver. 

The men worked in this way for three years, 
making no strikes and averaging about five 
dollars a day. Then Father and Speers sold 
out their claim and went to a large camp. 
Camp Secco, Dry Creek, it was called, and went 
to merchandising. They bought mules and a 
wagon and brought in from Sacramento the 
usual goods necessary to miners. After two 
years, the captain went home to his family. 
Father hired a man and kept on for another 
year, after which he sold out and came away, 
having accumulated six thousand five hundred 



dollars, the beginning of his fortune. He was in 
California from eighteen fifty-two to eighteen 
fifty -eight. His mates were sober, hard-working 
men. They made no wonderful strikes and what 
they got was by hard work and perseverance. 

There were many robbers and desperadoes 
about, and Father made one dangerous trip. 
He had left the few schoolbooks that he had 
carried even out to California miles away with 
some people he knew, and one day when it was 
raining so that he could not work his claim 
decided to go after them. He took a mule and 
on several occasions had to swim swollen creeks. 
Finally, night came on, and he was caught in 
the hills alone where many a man had disap- 
peared never to be seen again. However, after 
wandering about for hours in the darkness and 
in growing terror, he reached his destination 
at two o'clock in the morning. 

Before leaving California in eighteen fifty- 
eight he was naturalized in the San Francisco 
court and ever held his naturalization papers 
as one of his most prized possessions. 

His diary tells of his return to the East and 
his choice of Leavenworth for a home. Here he 
went into the leather business as the one of 
which he knew most and with his later life and 
business success, we are all familiar. 

Belle Willson Lobenstine 



I 

EXTRACTS FROM THE DIARY OF 
WILLIAM C. LOBENSTINE 



I 

EXTRACTS FROM THE DIARY 

Among the great many opinions expressed 
regarding usurpation of the government or 
despotism, one attracted my attention and 
agreed so much with my own sentiment that I 
could not but pay due merit to the moral truth 
of it. Despotism is despicable in its perpetrator 
and at all times a disgrace to human beings, 
depriving them perforce of their inalienable 
rights and their moral esteem for themselves 
and bringing them down on common ground 
with slaves. Although as just mentioned, 
despotism is at all times disgraceful to both 
sides we ought to pity those beings more who 
got their power as an inheritance than hate 
them. Who would and can deny that the early 
trainings of men lay the foundations to their 
further field of action? Therefore, when princes 
become the heirs of absolute governments, 
who can expect them to act differently than the 
Southern man does to his slaves? The latter, 
who was brought up among the family of man- 
kind, and has accepted principles common to 
them, is much more to blame for his tyranny 
than a sovereign who was raised alone isolated 
from his fellowmen by a belief in his divine 



origin and who never imagined, therefore, nor 
ever dreamed of the least equahty with man- 
kind. If Napoleon was great as conqueror, he 
was equally despicable for the misuse he made 
of the confidence entrusted in him by the peo- 
ple, and instead of perfecting the rights and 
liberties of the nation, he cheated them of these 
very objects given to his care and usurped the 
government. Napoleon knew how to play the 
deceiver well enough to keep the people in their 
happy dreams. He knew how to flatter them 
by giving them all visible power, but he showed 
by his future way of action that he only played 
the hypocrite and that his outward course only 
served him to attain his inward higher object 
which was nothing short of grasping the nation 
and enslaving his own countrymen, as all other 
nations, which were possible for him, he con- 
quered. Looking back from the point we started 
and considering once more both hereditary des- 
pots and usurpated despots, so will we certainly 
not think so hard of one who has got that power 
by inheritance, or who was raised from infancy 
to this sole object of keeping the people down, 
in poverty, and slavery, as of a usurpator, who 
has imbibed principles of liberty and equality, 
sympathises with his brothers, and becomes 
then their flatterer, and by abuse of his mental 
faculties and moral sentiments, with a happy 
change of circumstances, their master and com- 
mander. 



It is the great political question at present, 
if America is bound by the treaties with the 
foreign sovereigns to abstain from helping the 
poor, downtrodden and oppressed people of 
those countries to their attainments of their in- 
alienable rights. It is true that at the time when 
our constitution was made, our forefathers or 
rather their representatives in Congress, made 
a contract with the European princes to observe 
neutrality in their affairs, and declared there- 
fore it to be the duty of this government for 
its own dignity as well as for the honor of the 
nation not to send any help to Europe, but to be 
free from doing such an illegal act. America 
being, however, the most liberal, and by that 
the most powerful government in the world, if 
it is her duty to stick to the act which our fore- 
fathers have made, there is still the other side of 
the argument to consider, to arrive to a proper 
result. Justice is the first law of nature and as 
all of us expect to get justice done from our 
neighbors, and especially the government we 
have chosen out of our minds, so humanity de- 
mands to see our brothers, however distant, 
equalized in the same way. The consistent law 
or the laws on which societies are framed, and 
reared up to developed bodies, are of various 
kinds, devised principally by our philanthropists 
and philosophers and legislators, for the best of 
the parties concerned. Their origin, however, 
being of human intellect and moral sentiment. 



can be only as following out very narrow sources, 
limited in their consistency with human happi- 
ness. Laws which are the most beneficial influ- 
ence upon a society under certain circumstances 
and times, may be quite the opposite, with 
another united body, under different physical 
and moral conditions. Times and circumstances, 
therefore, cannot be suited to laws, but the 
latter need to be in a harmonizing cooperation 
with the former. If, therefore, our forefathers 
made laws or what is the same, the Constitu- 
tion, they could not at that time, establish or 
devise such as should stand for all times but 
only for themselves and for their own genera- 
tion. If Washington, John Adams or Jefferson, 
made treaties with foreign despots, it was for 
various causes arising out of their own at that 
time yet feebly maintained independence. But 
times have changed, out of that spark of freedom 
which fell among the population of this conti- 
nent has come a powerful government, illumi- 
nating, with its might, the whole world, and 
whose physical powers are sufficient to crush 
all enemies to dust and raise downtrodden, 
oppressed and dishumanized mankind and broth- 
ers up to their by nature determined position 
of equality and fraternity. As maintained be- 
fore, the exhausted position of America, which 
only could follow so great and sacrificing a 
struggle as that of the war of independence, 
obliged our forefathers to make friendly treat- 

6 



ies with the foreign powers, to avoid if possible 
another blow upon their rights and Hberties 
maintained so gloriously with England. But 
what is our strength at this moment? Are we 
still so feeble? Still so dependent on beings 
who are the scourge of mankind and deface the 
earth with cruelty and tyranny? We all cer- 
tainly will say no. All will say America is no 
more dependent on anybody but themselves 
and nature's laws. Politics and love to live 
forced legislators to treat friendly with despots 
and now this voice of justice and humanity 
calls them to throw off this so long maintained 
mask of amity to tyrannical systems and to 
declare themselves at once for mankind and 
fellowmen. The voice of nature is mighty and 
omnipotent. She calls us up out of our dream- 
like indifference to honorable participation in 
the fate of our fellowmen and makes it our duty 
to stand in defense of her laws on this planet 
and home of intellectual creatures. Let us throw 
off then our fastidious way of action and exert 
one and all of us the strength both physical and 
moral, for universal happiness and so lay by 
this the road to world's perfection. 



II 

VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA 



II 

VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA 

December thirty-first, eighteen hundred and 
fifty-one. 

Left Wheehng on Steamer Messenger for Pitts- 
burgh, April twentieth. Exodus to California. 

The tide of emigration for California swept 
me along in its progress for the same reason as 
thousands of others — to appropriate money 
enough by a few years' hard toil, to secure a 
future independency. When first the idea of 
a movement to the West took possession of me, 
I was wavering in the choice between California 
and Oregon and gave finally preference to 
Oregon on account of securing a homestead at 
the arrival there and to judge from the last 
news of the diggings better wages than in the 
latter. From an inability to make up a certain 
complement of immigrants I had to give up the 
project and go to California. I left subsequently 
Pittsburgh on the Steamer Parisy passing Wheel- 
ing without seeing my brother, and arrived 
after a week's journey down to the mouth of 
the Ohio River and from Cairo up the Missis- 
sippi to St. Louis. 

The Ohio River is formed by the confluence 
of the Monongahela and the Allegheny at Pitts - 

11 



burgh, the formation of which place is alluvial 
bottom carried down from the mountains in 
previous ages. It has along its shores some of the 
finest agricultural country as well as numberless 
cities and towns, among which we count the 
following as the largest and where the most 
business is carried on: Wheeling, Virginia, 
Marietta, Ohio, Cincinnati, Louisville, Evans- 
ville, etc. Besides these, being all places where 
manufacture of all kinds is carried on, I mention 
from its great obstruction to navigation, rather 
than its cosmogenic character, the Falls of 
Louisville, with the nature of which I am, how- 
ever, too little acquainted to give particulars. 
A canal, which was built years ago, to overcome 
this obstacle, is of so little dimensions that the 
larger boats can not pass through and therefore 
this has always been a drawback to Ohio navi- 
gation and a hindrance to more progress for the 
City of Louisville. Several requests have lately 
been made from several states to Congress for 
the construction of a new canal large enough to 
let boats of large dimensions pass at any time 
conveniently. The hills running alongside the 
river beginning at its source generally slope 
down to its shores, having in many places very 
fertile tracts for agriculture. This mountain 
chain proceeds most of the time in a parallel 
direction with the river down to about one hun- 
dred and fifty to two hundred miles below the 
falls where they gradually descend to a level 

12 



covered with luxurious vegetation in some places 
while marshes extend over a considerable part 
of it. The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi 
is at Cairo, built on a vast swampy and un- 
healthy desert which, but for its low level, 
would be the central place of the United States, 
for merchants, around which they would gather 
and from whose midst the greatest movements 
would emerge and be controlled. This being, 
how^ever, a natural difficulty, which no human 
skill can ameliorate, that centralizing point has 
to move higher up the river to St. Louis. This 
latter place has within the last twenty years 
increased remarkably and is at present the 
metropolis of the West and will undoubtedly 
increase in importance in a ratio parallel with 
the civilization of California and Oregon. By 
the present tide of emigration to the latter 
countries the amount of business is very much 
increased. In consequence of this a great many 
improvements have been made, consisting in 
building a large number of new expensive houses 
for merchants and manufacturers which betray 
to every stranger at the first look the impres- 
sion of a great and industrial city. 

Leaving St. Louis on the Steamer El Pam, we 
proceeded up the Mississippi twenty miles 
where w^e left this river to follow the course of 
another great river, the Missouri. This has in 
its main features a great resemblance to the 
Mississippi, having a chain of mountains parallel 



to both its shores and being sown with number- 
less islands like the former, the most of them 
nothing but sand carried down from the Rocky 
Mountains. The hills, however, instead of break- 
ing off abruptly as on the Mississippi are gen- 
erally sloping gradually at a height of sixty or 
seventy feet, toward the river bed. The coun- 
try along the shores is comparatively little cul- 
tivated, the constantly washing power of the 
water keeping back any active efforts for agri- 
cultural improvements. A great number of 
quite respectable towns are met with along the 
river, as Alton, Washington, Jefferson, Boone- 
ville, Lexington, Independence (starting point 
for California, Oregon and Texas) then, Kansas 
and last St. Joseph. The Kansas River coming 
from the West, separates Missouri from the 
Indian Territory, the latter still peopled by 
the Indians as their last and only resting place 
in this country. The history of this great 
family of the human race teaches us the con- 
stant progress and retreat in the pursuit of 
nature's laws, the eternal relation of all things 
existing. This once so numerous family of red 
men were the sole possessors of America, over 
which they had extended in all directions, and 
several tribes had reached a high state of civi- 
lization when the country first was discovered, 
but as other families analogous to their own 
(Hindus and Malays), they retrograded by 
some aberration of the laws of nature and fell 

14 



back into moral darkness and gradual disap- 
pearance from the face of the earth. The red 
men, once the masters of this vast land, had to 
give up their homes to give room to its present 
inhabitants and who knows how soon an inevit- 
able Nemesis will strike out their existence from 
the Book of Nations? 

This territory consists of mostly fertile prairie 
land, of an undulating appearance offering most 
beautiful fields to the observer of nature's 
beauties. After six days' journey we arrived 
at St. Joseph, Missouri. After our landing was 
made, a most active business took place at the 
wharf for a few hours arising from the delivery 
of freight to its respective owners. Having re- 
ceived our little property we put it in our 
wagons and camped out about a half mile above 
the town in a valley surrounded by hills and 
corn fields and except for a few cold rainy days 
we had a good encampment and passed the time 
we were there in making preparation for our long 
journey. 

We left camp the third day of May to pro- 
ceed on our journey further West, and after a 
few hours traveling not obstructed by difficul- 
ties with our teams nor bad roads, we arrived 
at Duncan's Ferry where emigrants for the West 
leave the United States and cross over to the 
Indian Territory. The ferry being badly attend- 
ed to by its owners travelers were obliged to 
stop here rather longer than would be necessary 

15 



if things were put in better condition with bet- 
ter men there to take care of it. We got across 
the river, however, after a thirty-six hour deten- 
tion and put our foot on Indian ground the 
morning of the fifth, went on five miles, where, 
meeting good wood and water, we struck our 
camp and stopped until the next morning. 

May sixth. The quiet of the night from the 
fifth to the sixth was interrupted by the heavy 
rolling of thunder, and its darkness bj'^ flashes 
of lightning. Towards morning we had a very 
heavy rain, which, although it put the roads in 
a rather bad condition, helped the vegetation 
considerably, and therefore, was of some ad- 
vantage to our procedure. On the morning of 
the sixth we started on our journey, and after 
passing a river which is difficult to cross we 
ascended for the first time the plateau this side 
of the Missouri. After having got up to a height 
of about fifty feet above the level of the Missouri 
River, a magnificent scene was displayed to 
our view, resembling very much my native 
country — Germany. The whole ground is 
prairie land, running ofl^ in slight undulations 
to the horizon and bounded in its Eastern 
progress by the bed of the Missouri and the 
mountain chains on the left. 

Nature is in this territory following its gradual 
progress and offers a vast land for cultivation to 
the natives of this and other continents. The 
civilization of this territory and Oregon will 

16 



raise America to its pinnacle of perfection, both 
in wealth and moral efficiency. California and 
the Western shore of Oregon will become a 
centralizing place for business progress from 
which knowledge will spread out a beacon light 
to all nations. 

We traveled this day about ten miles North- 
westward from our last encampment and about 
fifteen miles from St. Joseph. Our team got 
along very well and could have traveled several 
miles more but for driving our cattle as little 
as possible the first few days, to let them gather 
all the strength possible. We encamped at the 
left of the road where we met with plenty of 
wood and water and off to the right with pasture 
for our cattle. 

On the morning of the seventh after having 
fed our oxen and taken some refreshment our- 
selves we started for our further journey. About 
one-half mile from Camp we passed the Creek, 
on its upward ascent; passing on al)out a mile 
further we arrived at Wolf Creek, across which 
the Indians have struck a bridge, for the cross- 
ing of which they charge the emigrants a high 
price. It is, however, a great convenience to 
the latter, the creek being about thirty feet wide 
and from three to four feet deep. The Indians, 
who built the bridge, have put up their camp 
there. This side of the creek I ascended several 
hills, and after traveling about five miles ar- 
rived at the Mission. This is an Indian settle- 

17 



ment, where the Indians are taught the prin- 
ciples of Christianity. It consists of a few log 
huts, one of which contains stores where sev- 
eral of our traveling companions stopped and 
bought articles necessary on our journey. 

After leaving the Mission we went on about 
thirteen miles further, meeting within this dis- 
tance with several springs and after passing 
another creek we went up to the next hill and 
put up quarters for the night. This evening we 
bought a pony from some of the emigrants, 
which, although not of immediate necessity for 
the journey, is a very convenient thing to its 
owners. 

On the morning of the eighth I mounted the 
pony and rode ahead for a few miles. I mention 
this as being rather something great, being the 
first riding ever I did. Crossed about three 
miles from our last encampment — Buffalo Creek 
— where the Indians again charge toll for cross- 
ing and drove on this side the creek about twelve 
miles, meeting the grave of a deceased emigrant, 
on which lay a live dog, probably the only 
faithful servant to his master, howling away and 
paying the last tokens of sympathy to him who 
was resting there in a lonely grave. We stopped 
at the left of the road till morning, where we 
calculated to lay over Sunday. However, 
not finding good pasture for our cattle, 
we left there about eleven o'clock and pro- 
ceeded forwards about eight miles where we 

18 



unyoked our teams and put up for the night. 

May the tenth. We started early in the 
morning, proceeding Southwest on our road. 
Although the sky was clear at daylight, it cloud- 
ed over toward noon and we had one of the hard 
storms frequent on the plains and exposing the 
emigrants to discomfort and contagious dis- 
eases. Having driven off from the road expect- 
ing to find water and wood in a Southwesterly 
direction, about two miles off, we finally met, 
after having been wet all through, a creek bor- 
dered by plenty of timber, where we put up 
our encampment. These were some of the most 
discouraging moments we had since our start 
— arising from the wet and cold of the weather, 
and only moral courage can at this moment 
prevent moral depression. A man that had 
come around with us from Pittsburgh and dis- 
played to us the most gentlemanly behaviour, 
having started with a sick family of eight little 
children from St. Joseph, and kept with us up 
to this night, keeping up under all difficulties, 
was obliged, on account of his wife getting sick, 
a woman of the greatest energy ever met with, 
to turn back to the States. After having dried 
ourselves, we took a good night's rest and started 
with new vigor the next morning on our jour- 
ney. We had no difficulty getting along until 
about three o'clock P.M. 

About this time we arrived at a creek called 
Mehemahah. The descent to the water is very 

19 



steep and muddy, however of no great diffi- 
culty, compared to what is on the other side. 
Here, after passing the rapid stream, the water 
up to the wagon beds, we had to wade through 
some of the greatest mud holes ever met with 
before. Several of the teams got stuck on the 
other side. By increasing, however, the force, 
they finally got out and cleared the road for 
us to pass. After having proceeded about three 
miles on this side of the Mehemahah we stopped 
for the night. 

It is Wednesday to-day, the twelfth day of 
May, and we have safely arrived at this side 
of the Big Blue River. This is a very nice stream 
and bordered with willow, elm and walnut and 
some of the oak found on the hills. We crossed 
the river the next day having but little difficulty, 
the river being low and the roads good. A 
starting house is to be found at the ferry this 
side of the river where emigrants can get what 
is most necessary on the journey. The country 
Westward of the Blue becomes very hilly, which 
with the rivulets and streams between presents 
a beautiful scene. The Blue River is about one 
hundred fifty miles from St. Joseph and sup- 
posed to be about one-half the distance to Fort 
Kerney. We have traveled since our fording of 
that stream about thirty-five miles and are at 
the present encamped somewhere in the neigh- 
borhood of Little Blue. The weather set in ex- 
tremely cold and stormy about midnight and 

20 



not having sufficient bed clothing nearly froze 
me to death. After having got up and taken our 
morning refreshments, we went on to our present 
place of encampment. The just mentioned 
stormy and extremely cold weather continued 
throughout the day, which, with the dust raised 
off the roads, made traveling very disagreeable 
and difficult. 

On Sunday last we got in sight of the Little 
Blue in a Southerly direction from our present 
route. We did not, however, come to its banks 
before Tuesday the eighteenth day, and passed 
up an extremely hilly country for about twenty- 
five miles and left this river for the Platte. 

We didn't leave the banks of Little Blue until 
this afternoon, Tuesday, the twentieth, the 
misstatement previously mentioned arising from 
the unauthenticity of the guide we took the 
respective distances from. The parallel distance 
we made along the shores of this river must have 
been about fifty to sixty miles. It is a very 
beautiful stream, much more elevated in its 
beauty by the barrenness of the surrounding 
country. Its water is, when at a medium stage, 
very clear and of very good taste. On our pas- 
sage up the river we got in view of several 
prairie inhabitants as wolves, chickens and sev- 
eral miles off the river, antelopes and single 
specimens of bufl'alo. 

The weather of to-day, although it was very 
pleasant and favorable to our journey, caused 

21 



by its continued dryness a dearth of grass and 
by this, loss in the strength of our cattle. While 
I am writing these remarks a change of weather 
has taken place, which likely will make an im- 
provement in the growth of the vegetation. 
The health of our company has been, since our 
start, in a good condition and although a num- 
ber of deaths, partly of cholera morbus and 
smallpox happened among the emigrants, all 
of us are still enjoying our vigorous health and 
in general are in a good spirited mood. The fre- 
quent change, however, from hot days to damp 
cold nights is sufficient to undermine the stoutest 
constitution. How, therefore, we will in future 
this great gift of nature — health — preserve, is 
not to be fixed as a definite fact. Be it, however, 
understood, that a careful observance of physio- 
logical laws can abate diseases to a considerable 
extent. 

May the twenty-first. We are now encamped 
about six miles Northwards of the Little Blue, 
and although late in the day we have on account 
of the rainy and stormy weather, not as yet de- 
camped. 

May the twenty -third. It is Sunday to-day 
and the great bright luminary of the day is 
peeping over the horizon in its full splendor, 
and eternal youthfulness animating the whole 
creation and endowing it with new strength and 
vigor. The remark so frequently referred to 
by Christians that the sublime beauty displayed 

22 



by the sun proved the existence of a God, was 
made to me last night by a UniversaHst. True, 
the beauty is grand and subhme, but it is so 
without divinity connected with it. It is not 
something beyond nature but a planetary phe- 
nomenon following the great arrangements, the 
great and eternal laws of Mother Nature. No 
reasonable man will doubt the existence of a 
great incomprehensible principle which per- 
vades throughout all nature, but this principle 
is nothing separated from the universe but is 
the great whole itself which can exist only all 
in all and not other ways which always was, 
always is and always will be, although things 
may be subjected to great changes. 

We stopped in our camp a considerable part 
of the day. Orthodox Christians objecting to 
our movement. Calling, however, a meeting, 
and taking every single vote, the majority car- 
ried the motion for moving onwards. Having 
arrived last night within three miles to Fort 
Kerney, we made this distance in about an hour's 
time. The resemblance of this place to the civi- 
lized world awakened in us a great feeling of 
happiness thinking that although far, far off from 
home, out in a great desert, still enjoyment was 
offered to the onward moving emigrant. The 
fort consists of five frame houses, two for the 
use of the commanding officers, the rest for the 
soldiers, all built in good style well answering 
their respective purposes. Besides these build- 

23 



ings is a church for the service of the Lord which 
is frequented by soldiers, civiHzed Indians and 
passing emigrants. About three miles above the 
fort, we lost, by the carelessness of one of the 
men, our pony. By the hardest kind of running, 
we recovered it again. Nothing of weight hap- 
pened the next day. Having proceeded about 
twenty miles further up the river we stopped 
for the night. 

Twenty-sixth. We are now about three hun- 
dred and fifty miles off St. Joseph, encamped 
along the bank of the Platte here of about one 
and one-half miles width and very shallow. The 
river is sown with small islands all of very 
modern formation. They are generally over- 
grown with cottonwoods, and some of the oak 
kind, frequented more or less by wild geese, 
crows and numerous birds of smaller kind. Just 
as I am writing these lines my attention is 
attracted by the sublimity of the scenery 
around us. The whole Western border of the 
horizon is grandly beautified by the setting sun 
which, although out of sight, still leaves traces 
of its grand and sublime beauty behind, painting 
the horizon with the most various colours. It 
is getting darker and the far off peaks of a moun- 
tain chain which appears to follow a parallel 
course with the edges of the horizon gradually 
disappear. Quiet and peace is spread all over 
nature's garden. Many a turbulent mind is 
silenced by this beautiful phenomenon, and 

24 



while yet gazing at it, is sunk in the arms of 
the God of Sleep, Morpheus. 

May the twenty - ninth, morning at five 
o'clock. We have traveled since my last notes 
were put down forty miles through a very barren 
mountainous country, grass being very scarce 
and water of inferior character, having in it 
dissolved some alkali substances. The second 
day or May twenty-eighth, inserting first that 
the day before we passed several creeks, meet- 
ing a most splendid spring at the last, we struck 
the bluffs near about the forks of the river. The 
bluffs which I visited this day are mainly 
composed of sand, likely deposited there by the 
wind in latter times. The whole bottom along 
the Platte is mostly sand which in dry season on 
account of the violent winds which prevail here, 
nothing being here to break its force, is a great 
inconvenience to travelers. The Platte river 
bottom below and above Fort Kerney up to 
where the road meets with the blufl's, is very 
little above the level of its waters, varying from 
five to fifteen feet above that, however, till when 
you strike the above mentioned point, its alti- 
tude is about twenty-five feet. 

We met on the latter part of our journey 
numerous graves of emigrants who had finished 
their course in nature's garden to adopt new 
form and shape suiting a different object in 
nature. The deceased died mostly of cholera and 
smallpox, more or less originating from an un- 

25 



healthy diet, bad water and exposure. Good care 
and observance of physiological laws, however, 
as I previously mentioned, can considerably 
alleviate the diseases, if not keep them off alto- 
gether, from which cause then, I principally 
account for the good state of our health. 

We are now about crossing the river (the 
South fork of it) the forks of which we struck a 
day before this. The river runs in a Southwest 
direction and is about half a mile wide and very 
shallow, with quicksand in the bottom. The 
fordage was of no diflSculty to us, the river as 
first mentioned being very low, and having 
arrived on its opposite side we pursued our 
journey in a West - Northwesterly direction 
toward the Cedar Bluffs. After having the day 
before stopped about five o'clock at the right 
of the road, where we met with fairly good 
grass and water, we traveled the next day, 
Sunday, the thirtieth, till we reached the point 
where the road strikes the Bluffs which latter 
point is about twenty or twenty-five miles from 
where we crossed the river. Stopped about ten 
o'clock and encamped to rest ourselves and our 
cattle for the remainder of the day, which by 
the hard road and great heat of the past week 
was very much required to invigorate us for the 
future. I read several chapters of Byron, but 
my mind being nearly down to zero on account 
of the excessive heat, I could not concentrate 
my spirits enough to follow his violent imagina- 

26 



tion. Next morning we started early for the 
Bluffs. The passage of them was very hard on 
our teams, the weather being very hot and the 
road being all sand, our wagons cut in very deep 
and therefore required the hardest pulling to get 
along. We descended down the other side — a 
terrible steep road — having traveled about ten 
miles over the hills and after proceeding ten 
miles further we encamped nigh the river whirl- 
pool. Here was a good camping ground, dry and 
pleasant. 

Tuesday we started for Ashes Hollow, being 
about eighteen miles from our starting place. 
The road led like the previous days through 
very sandy regions, the parallel running bluffs 
offering from the sameness of appearance in 
stratifications and composition very little attrac- 
tion to the passing travelers. Two miles this 
side Ashes Hollow, the road ascends a very steep 
hill, about sixty feet above the level of the sea, 
being undoubtedly the hardest hill to pass over 
we have met up to this on our journey. After 
having got up to its highest point, the road 
gradually descends into the hollow which builds 
with the former a square angle. This valley is 
about two hundred feet wide, bordered with 
rocks and fine gravel in its hollow and timbered 
with ash trees and some wild roses and grapes. 
A cool spring, unsurpassed in its water by any 
we have met yet in this territory, is to be found 
to the right of the creek about a mile from 

27 



where you first strike it. There we met a kind of 
trading post where several articles for the re- 
mainder of the journey for a reasonable price 
can be got. We passed on about two miles 
further from where we left the latter and en- 
camped for the night (June second). 

Monday, June 7th. Last week I neglected, 
not being at leisure in mornings or evenings 
and too much downspirited at noon, to keep up 
my journal with the events as I met them, but 
I shall try to recall in my memory the main 
objects met with. For two days after we left 
Ashes Hollow the roads were bad, being very 
hard on our cattle as well as ourselves. We got 
along, however, as well as circumstances did 
permit and after passing several creeks, hove on 
Friday last towards noon, in sight of Courthouse 
Rocks, called so by emigrants from a supposed 
resemblance with the building of that name, 
but appearing to me, however, more like some 
ancient castle than the object it is compared 
with. The rock is about eight miles off the 
road, a very deceiving distance to the traveler 
who thinks it only two or three miles off. 

Proceeding further, having the Courthouse 
to our left, and the Platte at our right, the 
pinnacle of another rock got within the reach of 
our eye. This is what is called a chimney rock 
from its great resemblance to some factory chim- 
neys. Although nearly twenty miles away it 
could distinctly be seen. We traveled on to 

28 



within about eight miles of it and encamped to 
the right of the road, nigh the river bank. The 
next morning we vStarted early. Some of our 
company went on ahead to ascend the rock. I 
stayed with the wagon, being not very well on 
foot, and proceeded slowly on our journey. 
Chimnej^ rock is about, from its base to its 
apex, four hundred feet high, consisting of a low 
and second platform. Upon the latter is the 
cliimney or shaft of tlie rock nearly one hundred 
feet high. This rock is principally composed of 
marl and clay, intermixed with several strata of 
white cement. Joining the chimney rock, right 
above it, I beheld a most beautiful sight, being 
a section of rock of singular construction resem- 
bling in its appearance very much some of the 
scenery along the Rhine. The whole consisted 
of five rocks, one approaching the form of anoth- 
er smaller chimney and giving with the rest a 
most grand view, just like an ancient fort of 
the feudal barons on an average steep ascending 
hill, with cupola on the top assuming the forms 
of ruins. Had I the talent of a Byron or the 
skilled hand of a Raphael I might give an ade- 
quate idea of the landscape, but as I am, even 
common language is wanting to give an appro- 
priate description. I thought it, hovvever, 
romantic, and truly felt more than my tongue 
may express. O what a pity it is to be deficient 
of Brain! 

Towards evening we arrived at a trading 

29 



post, about eight miles before the pass of Scotch 
Bluffs, and encamped here for the night. 

Sunday, set out with a cloudy sky and rain. 
It soon, however, cleared up and turned into a 
sunny day. We approached the Scotch Bluffs, 
which we saw the evening before golden in the 
light of the setting sun, and our whole attention 
was attracted by the grandeur of the former, still 
more beautified by the surrounding country. 
The appearance of these sand hills, although 
from far off like solid rock, has a very accurate 
resemblance to a fortification or stronghold of 
the feudal barons of the middle age, of which 
many a reminder is yet to be met with along the 
bank of the Rhine. The rock itself is separated 
nearly at its middle, having a pass here about 
fifty to sixty feet wide, ascending at both sides 
perpendicular to a height of three hundred to 
four hundred feet. The passage through here 
was only made possible in 1851 and is now pre- 
ferred by nearly all the emigrants, cutting off a 
piece of eight miles from the old road. We 
passed through without any difficulty and after 
having passed another blacksmith shop and 
trading post, which are very numerous, protec- 
tion being secured to them by the military 
down at Fort Laramie, we encamped for the 
night. 

We arrived at Laramie on Tuesday evening, 
a day sooner than we calculated to get there. 
The Fort is situated on the Laramie River, 

30 



which joins with the Platte about two miles 
below the Fort and about one hundred yards 
below the bridge for crossing of which we were 
charged two hundred dollars. The country 
around the fort is of a pleasing aspect. The bluffs 
which surround it slope off gradually down 
into the valley, through which the river of the 
same name winds in the most lovely curves, 
whose margins are timbered with a scattered 
growth of Cottonwood and brush of various 
kinds. The Fort consists of several caserns for 
the subordinate soldiers, a better building for 
the captain, a powder and provision magazine, 
a hospital open to the broken-down travelers 
who wish to stop there, a good store where all 
articles a man wants in civilized countries or 
on the plains can be bought. The garrison dis- 
posed here is of a small number — from fifty to 
one hundred and fifty, which number although 
small, is sufficient to keep down any unruly 
spirit among the inhabitants of the soil. After 
getting a few requisite articles, we started from 
our encampment near the Fort for the black 
hills, along which the road runs on towards the 
Rocky Mountains. 

The scenery, after passing the Fort and pro- 
ceeding a few miles up the river, assumes quite 
a different aspect from that which we have 
passed before the Fort. The monotony of the 
prairie land disappears, and a varied highland 
scenery is oft'ered to the traveler. The road leads 

31 



generally over the bluffs at an average height of 
about seventy to one hundred feet above the bed 
of the Platte and in advancing approaches 
sometimes towards the Southwestern mountain 
chain with the Laramie Peak, whose summit is 
six thousand feet above the sea and covered 
with snow throughout the greater part of the 
year. This mountain can be seen at a distance 
of one hundred miles. We have first sight of it 
at the Scotch Bluff, distant about that far from 
it. Cones or little craters form the bulk of the 
mountain and give it a romantic appearance. 
The Platte River above the Fort Laramie takes 
a different appearance from its lower course. 
The low fertile land through which it runs for 
nearly seven hundred to eight hundred miles to 
its mouth, is changed into a highland scene. 
Its course is rapid and cut through the solid 
granite rocks which must have taken many a 
century to open such passes and to such an 
extent as we met in this part of our journey. 
The beauty of the mountain chain is greatly 
increased by the scattered trees of cedar and 
pine and by the interruption of numerous 
streams which are bordered with a most beau- 
tiful growth of cottonwoods and other trees. 

June twelfth. We left the river about noon 
and ascended for the whole afternoon up the 
highest bluffs on our advance. We got consid- 
erably molested by the wind which blew right 
in our faces and darkened them with sand. 

32 



Meeting a spring up near the highest point of 
ascent we stopped for the night. Next morning 
started for the descent. The Blackhill road 
comes in from where the road commences tak- 
ing down to the bottom. We passed the LePonds 
River, at the foot of the bluffs, a very nice stream, 
beautifully treed with cotton wood. About four 
miles forwards on the road we passed another 
creek called by its red bank, Red Bank. The 
whole country around is a red stratified rock of 
the same kind — being iron ore. 

June fourteenth. We drove about ten miles 
to-day, passed several new graves, and crossed 
three small creeks. Toward evening we en- 
camped two miles up the Little Deer Creek to 
rest our cattle, as well as ourselves, and prepare 
for ascending the Rocky Mountains. I read 
several pages of geology treating of the different 
classes of rocks, their respective composition, 
position and the circumstances under which 
the process of protrusion and stratification took 
place. 

The fifteenth. Some of our men killed various 
kinds of game on the bluffs with which we quite 
prepared us a feast adequate to all luxuries we 
ever had at home. 

June the sixteenth. We took a new start 
this morning for the future of our journey. 
Leaving Little Deer Creek, we struck, after 
having met with the main road, the river, 
along the banks of which we passed all day and 

33 



towards evening encamped within reach of it. 
We passed Big Deer Creek about noon; the 
country around, although the stream is of quiet 
romantic beauty, is very barren, offering but 
Httle pasture to the emigrants' teams. 

June the seventeenth. This morning we 
started for the ferry, twenty-seven miles above 
Big Deer Creek. We arrived at the river about 
noon and got across again three or four o'clock 
in the afternoon, where we left the other side 
for the bluffs and encamped about four miles 
onwards on the road from the Platte. The 
ferry at this place is carried on with flat boats 
which are fastened to ropes spread across the 
river. The current carries them from one shore 
to the other. The following day we started very 
early in the morning, ascended Rattlesnake 
Hills, very rocky, and pursued our journey this 
day through an extremely barren section of 
country, the soil being mainly sand without any 
good water and grass. At Willow Springs 
twenty-six miles above the Platte ferry we ar- 
rived towards evening and put up for the night. 

Not having any grass at all we started very 
early next morning intending to stop wherever 
any pasture could be found. Meeting the object 
of our wishes, we grazed the cattle for several 
hours. Ponds with alkali water being about, 
several of our cattle got to drink, and shortly 
after our start, several got to be very sick, the 
alkali beginning to operate. We gave some of 

34 



them fat bacon and some vinegar to neutralize 
the alkali, which had the best wished effects. 

The country passed over to-day is very sandy 
and dry, offering nothing hardly to the passing 
emigrants. The hills which range along this 
part are called Blue Hills, probably from the 
growth of pines with which they are planted. 

Sunday, June the twentieth. Proceeding on- 
wards, we came to the Indian Dance Rock, 
called so by Colonel Fremont in 1847. This rock 
is a huge pile of granite about half a mile in 
circumference and one hundred-fifty feet high. 
Its sides are decorated with numerous names of 
emigrants who passed them since '49. The road 
leads to the left of the rock along the river and 
crosses it about one and one-half miles from the 
said rock. Five miles onwards, passing over a 
very sandy road, we arrived at Devil's Gate, a 
precipice between the perpendicular walls of 
which the Sweetwater passed. This is undoubt- 
edly the most interesting sight to the attentive 
traveler, made so by the profound deepness 
of the pass and the stratee of ancient rocks laid 
open to the view of the naturalist. The rocks 
here are piled up in a strange chaos, consisting 
of primary (hypogene) rocks turned up on their 
edges in a nearly perpendicular position, inter- 
mixed with others in a horizontal and vertical 
position. The descent of this rock is, on account 
of its steepness, very difficult and connected 
with considerable danger. Too great precaution 

35 



can't be taken by explorers. The river undergoes 
a fall of nearly ten or twelve feet, the water 
running very rapidly in its onward bound course. 
The road from here leads more or less along the 
river for twenty -five miles, where it separates in 
two, one crossing the river and the other takes 
over the bluffs. This latter road is extremely 
sandy and as heavy a pull for cattle as any part 
of the road we have passed. Teams that have 
not been taken proper care of, generally are 
lessened here by several of them breaking down 
by fatigue and feebleness. 

Traveling onwards we struck the river and 
passed along it for two miles where we ascended 
the bluffs again. Viewing the surrounding 
country, we discovered on the edges of the 
horizon a very large snow clad mountain, its 
summit nearly hid in the clouds, and its sides 
shining in a bedazzling luster. 

June the twenty-third. Rain setting in 
through the night, we were obliged to take a 
very early start. The alkali, with which the 
ground was covered, being dissolved by the 
water, might, if drunk by the cattle, have some 
very serious effect. Passing the bluffs, nothing 
of note happened, and after fourteen miles 
traveling, we arrived at the river banks, where 
we stopped to feed our cattle and took our own 
repast. Pasture being very gloomy here, we 
left for our afternoon's journey. After crossing 
the river we ascended a very steep hill, very 

Z6 



stony and barren ground, the road leading 
down towards the river, where it turns at nearly 
a square angle, and ascends another very steep 
hill. The descent here is very rapid and slopes 
off into the Sweetwater Valley. Pursuing our 
course upwards, we met with some good pasture 
where we stopped and encamped for the night. 
June the twenty-fifth. Having enjoyed a 
good night's rest and taken a good repast, we 
started with our cattle pretty well filled for the 
bluffs. This mountain, or rather tableland, 
about three to four hundred feet above the 
level of the river or six to seven thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, is principally com- 
posed of aqueous rocks of tertiary formation, 
sand and gravel, which are turned up here in 
vertical position, the upturned edges giving 
evidence of volcanic action. The road over this 
rock, of course, is very stony and hard, difficult 
to pass over for the cattle. We struck a branch 
of the Sweetwater this side the bluffs, about 
fifteen miles from where we ascended them. 
The weather to-day is very unpleasant, heavy 
and cold showers drenching us several times. 
Meeting with no grass up to our usual stopping 
time, we drove on till late trying to make the 
river, where we expected to meet with some good 
pasture. At our arrival there we found the 
prospects as poor as previously met with. 
Stopped, however, and the next morning crossed 
for the last time the Sweetwater. 



The weather to-day, although the road led 
us through hills covered with snow, was fair 
and warm, and the contrast or change it was 
from yesterday, made the travelers the more 
sensitive to it. We arrived at the South pass 
about noon and stopped to take dinner at the 
Pacific Springs. The pass goes through the moun- 
tain gradually so that when the traveler arrives 
at this point he hardly feels satisfied with the 
reality. The country along here is extremely 
poor. No grass, and even good water is scarce. 
The road ascends again this side the springs, 
and continues hilly for about eighteen miles, 
when it separates in two branches, the Mormon 
road going off in a South, South-west, the Cali- 
fornia road in a nearly due West direction. Our 
wagons arriving at the fork, struck without any 
previous consultation with the company, the 
Mormon road. Proceeding onwards we forded 
the Little Sandy, nine miles off the fork and 
eight and one-half miles further onwards the 
Big Sandy — both pleasant streams with a lovely 
growth of willows and cottonwood. We en- 
camped this side the bank of the latter stream 
where there was good pasture for our cattle 
and all necessaries for our own comfort. 

June twenty -sixth. This day being Sunday and 
one man in our company being sick and in rather 
poor condition to travel, we stayed all day and 
recruited ourselves and our oxen. Nothing hap- 
pened throughout the day except that several 

38 



of the Snake Indians caught squirrels about our 
neighborhood and paid us a short visit. Towards 
evening, read several passages out of the Bible 
and argued aboiit the vulgar sentiment and 
language used in many places. 

Monday morning, started stout and hearty on 
our journey and have just arrived again after 
passing over about eighteen miles of highland to 
the Big Sandy. There we strike this stream for the 
last time and are making now for Green River, 
ten miles further onwards. About five miles 
from our starting point the road forks. The 
upper road is called Kiney's cut off and joins 
with Sapplett's cut off. The lower branch 
strikes the Green River, which is on account of 
its extreme swiftness very hard to cross. The 
fording of this river is, by a good ferry carried 
on by Mormons, very much facilitated. Emi- 
grants crossing here at the beginning of the 
California emigration had a great deal of trouble 
to get their stock across — numbers of them lost 
their lives and stock both. 

Green River leads into the Rocky Mountains 
and numerous tributaries are flowing into it on 
its Southwesterly course where it pours its 
waters into the Colorado. The river is about 
one hundred and fifty yards wide and con- 
siderably deep; its water is very cold from its 
snowy origin and runs at the rate of five to 
eight miles an hour. We forded the river on 
the morning of the twenty-ninth and followed 

39 



down along its banks for eight miles in a South- 
eastern direction. Took then the bluffs and 
traveled on Southwards for about five miles 
where we encamped near a branch of the river 
with plenty of grass. Although snow clad moun- 
tains bordered the horizon in the South the 
weather was extremely warm and what made it 
still more burdensome were the myriads of 
mosquitoes which molested us very much, yes 
extremely so. 

Next morning we traveled onwards five miles 
from our last camping ground and crossed a 
branch of the Green River, on the other side of 
which we took the bluffs, descending several 
times into valleys where the river pursued his 
ocean-bound course. After striking the river 
the last time about ten miles from where we 
passed the branch we ascended again and trav- 
eled on in a Southwest direction. Meeting a 
small stream of water here about five miles 
distant from where we left the river, we en- 
camped for the night. 

July first. Left this encampment after having 
put in a horrible night with mosquitoes, bound 
for Fort Bredger, twenty miles from this spot. 
The road along this distance is hilly and stony, 
pasture and water scarce, scenery poor up to 
where we have sight of the Fort which is located 
in a beautiful valley and named for this reason 
the Garden of the Mountains. From here the 
road gradually ascends a ridge and on the lat- 

40 



ter, about five miles this side the Fort, we en- 
camped for the night. Cedar trees growing 
spontaneously here, we had plenty wood for 
cooking use and good pasture for the cattle. 

The road from now covers very hilly country 
over high ridges and deep valleys with very 
steep ascents and descents, therefore very hard 
for our teams. Proceeding onwards we met some 
most lovely and beautiful sights of natural 
beauty and but the hum of rural life would be 
necessary to make it a second Eden. To give 
an adequate idea of the beauty of this country 
none but a Byron or some other passionate 
writer can do. I, however, add that the high 
going sea appears to have the most resemblance 
to this interrupted bottom. The soil which 
covers the most of these mountains is very spon- 
taneous (fertile), the most so in the bottoms. 
The mountains themselves are a deposit of water, 
the greatest number of them lately by their 
abrupt form and to my view are gravity rocks, 
cemented together by some binding matter. 
The formations of many of these rocks offer 
quite a picturesque view as we pass by. Caves 
and tunnels of all shapes are carved into them 
by the dissolving power of water. Towards 
noon to-day after having passed many ups and 
downs, we arrived at the highest point between 
the States and Salt Lake. The height of this 
ridge is seven thousand, seven hundred feet 
above the level of the sea and is the dividing 

41 



ridge between the Colorado and the water of 
the great basin. From this point on we descended 
more or less and having arrived in the valley 
we traveled on about sixteen miles to the Sul- 
phur Springs where we encamped for the night. 
Next day our road continued over the same 
interrupted ground. About two miles from our 
last camp forwards on the road we arrived at 
Bear River which we crossed with some difficulty 
and went on to Echo Creek meeting on our road 
some Indians who traded us venison for powder 
and beads. Here we stopped for the night 
and after we got our breakfast next morning, 
July the fourth, we followed the river down 
twenty miles, crossing it seventeen times in 
this distance. This valley along which the 
road leads is very narrow bordered on both sides 
with high mountains of gravelly composition 
closely cemented together. The valley runs in 
a nearly Southern direction and runs on to where 
Echo Creek joins the Webber River, a stream 
about the size of Bear River. We crossed the 
river Sunday towards evening and went onwards 
several miles of nearly steady descent from the 
top of a hill which we had previously ascended 
to a creek along which we traveled about twelve 
miles crossing it thirteen times — crossings very 
bad. After we had the last crossing we com- 
menced to climb a very difficult ascent. At 
the top of the latter, four miles from the base 
to the high point, the road leads down hill 

42 



again. Echo Creek which heads on this side of 
the mountains runs on to the city. The road 
leads alongside of it, crossing it some twenty 
times. We traveled on till three o'clock when 
we struck the foot of a mountain three miles this 
side of town and encamped for the night. 

The Salt Lake Valley is built by high moun- 
tains whose summits reach into the clouds, 
forming with its craggy sides a picturesque and, 
joined with the beauty of the valley, a lovely 
scene. The valley is thirty miles wide and 
some seventy-five to one hundred miles long. 
Within its mountainous enclosure it contains 
some of the most fertile and beautiful country 
ever looked on by men. The Salt Lake which 
stretches along the Valley on the North side helps 
to beautify the scene. Beside this is the town 
itself which is laid out in practical lots consist- 
ing in a house and garden lot, the latter for agri- 
cultural purposes. The houses, about one thou- 
sand in number, are built of mud, dried in the 
sun and are in every way like the houses in the 
States. The people to the number of about six 
thousand living in the city and about four thou- 
sand in different counties of the valley are 
Mormons. Although their creed contains a 
great many foolish things, they have in some of 
their social arrangements the advantage over us 
and the traveler passing through Salt Lake 
Valley and seeing everything working harmoni- 
ously together as nature itself cannot help but 

43 



think them, more so, if he looks upon the crops 
which nature spontaneously produces here, a 
happy and nearly independent people. One of 
the precepts of their faith, Polygamy, although 
generally used as a reproach to them, I person- 
ally admit as a true natural one, being consis- 
tent with nature. Having supplied ourselves 
with a few more necessaries for the remainder 
of the trip and some little repairing done to our 
teams, we left the city intending to stop at some 
good pasture place in the valley. On the road 
which runs on along through town towards the 
North we met with the Hot Spring at the left 
of the road. This Spring comes out of the sur- 
rounding mountains, being of nearly boiling 
heat and containing in it diluted a high percent- 
age of sulphur. 

The weather to-day is very hot and oppres- 
sive, being the more burdensome on account of 
my not being well, having previously been weak- 
ened by sickness. Eight miles from here, to 
the left we espied good grass and a stream of 
water, where we encamped and stopped there for 
the next two days. While lying here I took sick 
again, being a relapse of my former illness of 
dysentery. In applying though some of Dr. 
Dickson's pills and some other strong mixture 
besides this, I stopped it and I am fully con- 
vinced to-day that by paying a little precau- 
tion to diet I shall get well and strong again. 

We left our camp on Saturday, the tenth day 

44 



of July, traveling along a high mountain range 
through the valley for about sixteen miles, 
crossing in this distance several small creeks 
bordered with willows and aspens. A great part 
of the country is well cultivated and loaded 
with a heavy crop of wheat, some corn and 
luxurious meadows, the latter rivalling any I 
ever saw before in any country. This evening 
we encamped at a small streamlet about twenty- 
five miles from the city. Grass very scarce, all 
other things however easy to be got. From 
houses being about here, we had plenty of milk 
and butter. 

Sunday the eleventh. Started late, many of 
the company having not got used to our former 
speedy proceeding yet. Drove over some 
sandy roads through desert country to the 
Webber river, which we had crossed just a week 
ago in its upper course. The river being in a 
low state, we forded it ourselves without any 
difficulty and stopped three miles on the other 
side of it, where we caught up with a wagon 
of our company that had left us at the city. 

Monday, July the twelfth. This morning the 
road led through brush and high grass onto a 
second bank along which we travelled the whole 
day, passing numerous farms on the lower side 
of the road and crossing several creeks in the 
latter part of the day. To the right of the road 
runs a mountain chain about one thousand to 
one thousand five hundred feet above the level 

45 



of the lake, its sides as well as summit ornament- 
ed with a lovely growth of cedars and some of 
its crevices filled with snow. This evening we 
struck camp three miles this side of Grazing 
Creek where we laid till next morning to pro- 
ceed no further on our journey. 

This day, the road crossed several creeks, the 
first, Grazing, and five miles onward from this. 
Box Elder — further on, several small creeks and 
springs so that we had abundance of water all 
day. At Box Elder, we left the settlement, and 
pursued our course again on the Desert where 
our former contest with hardships and priva- 
tions began from now on for the remaining 
journey. We traveled to-day twenty miles 
from Willow Creek and encamped at a Spring 
five miles this side of Bear River. This streamwe 
crossed next day early in the morning paying 
four hundred dollars ferriage and proceeded on- 
wards. From here we had as hard times as we 
ever saw on the plains arising from our want of 
good water for thirty-six miles which latter 
circumstance with the extreme heat was very 
hard on us and the cattle. We arrived at the 
end of the above mentioned distance about noon 
the next day at Hensols Spring where we 
stopped and refreshed ourselves with some good 
cold water. The road along this distance leads 
over a very hilly and dry country which on 
this latter account disappoints the choking 
emigrant extremely, expecting at every roll to 

46 



have in sight some fountain to revive the ex- 
hausted energies. 

Six miles further we struck Deep Creek, 
running on the North side of the valley until 
where the road strikes the valley, where it 
turns toward the South and about six miles 
downward it sinks in the ground. At this place, 
called Deep Creek Sink we arrived next day 
and our cattle being worked down and their 
feet being sore, the company again decided to 
stay here and rest them as well as recruit our- 
selves somewhat. 

July sixteenth. We left our last encampment 
at the sink and proceeded downwards for the 
Pilot Springs where we intended to water the 
cattle. The country begins here to get poorer, 
pasture becoming extremely scarce now, hardly 
to be found on creeks and around slews and then 
only a good way up or down stream. 

Seventeen miles from Deep Creek Sink at 
some Springs in the side of a hill we met with 
good pasture and although still early in the 
day, we stopped there and lay till morning. 
Cedar trees and sage bushes are all the vegeta- 
tion to be seen in this region and the journey 
on this account is monotonous and tiresome. 
The road from here takes over a hill from which 
can be seen for the last time the Salt Lake with 
its blue waters and its mountain high islands 
which with the surrounding hills offers quite a 
picturesque view to the observer. 

47 



About eight miles from Mountain Springs 
onwards we came to Stony Creek, a mountain 
stream whose water is more or less made up of 
melted snow and ice and is very cold, therefore 
very much relished by travelers. From Stony 
Creek to the Casus Creek, distant about eight 
miles, the country continues very poor having 
nothing but wild sage and cedars on the bluffs. 
Casus Creek is a small stream bordered like 
all the creeks in this country with willows, the 
latter from the thick bunches in which they 
stand, a hiding place to the Indians. Pasture 
along this Creek is plenty, therefore good camp- 
ing here. The road follows up the Creek about 
eight miles and crosses it in this distance three 
times, the middle ford being considerable miry 
when we passed. 

Leaving Casus Creek the road ascends grad- 
ually towards a high situated point about five 
miles, where it joins with the cut off roads, three 
hundred and seventy miles West from the forks 
of the main road. 

Coming up towards the summit of the hill we 
hove in sight of the City Rocks, being numerous 
rocks of all sizes and shapes piled up so on the 
slope of a mountain towards North West which 
resembled in appearance a city at a distance 
built on the side of a hill. From here the road 
descends down into a valley about five or six 
miles long with several small creeks which were, 
however, dry when we passed them. Ascending 

48 



the hills on the West side of the valley we met 
with some water to the left, running down 
parallel with the road, and traveling on a mile 
further struck its head, consisting of several 
good cold springs. Next morning we started 
on our road which on account of many sliding 
rocks was very difficult and extremely hard on 
cattle. These hills are called Gooth Creek 
Mountains, running along a stream called the 
same name. Their forms and shapes are very 
various and mostly composed of aqueous rocks 
in parallel stratas. Five miles traveling over 
this interrupted ground brought us into the 
Gooth Creek Valley which we followed up 
eighteen miles — the roads good and grass plenty. 
The valley along the upper course of the Gooth 
Creek narrows; the mountains forming the 
valley are steep and composed of some granular 
gravel. Small sharp edged rocks are scattered 
all along the road and are very hard on catties' 
feet. 

At the head of Gooth Creek we met a good 
spring coming out from under the rocks. The 
water is cold and the weather being very hot 
we relished it very much. From here the road 
leaves the Gooth Creek Valley and continues 
over a mountainous, rocky and very barren 
country to the Rock Spring Valley. At the head 
of it to the right are several cold springs coming 
like the one spring at the head of Gooth Creek 
from under a rocky ledge. Grass around this 

49 



spring is little or none. Following the road, 
however, for about four miles further, grass 
became plentiful and more so toward the head 
of the valley. Crossing several ridges, we de- 
scended into Thousand Spring Valley, so called 
in consequence of the numerous Springs some 
of very high temperature; others are mere cold 
wells of considerable depth. The road leads 
here along the valley ten miles and pasture was 
real good. 

July the twenty -fourth. Friend and compan- 
ion Logan died this morning at five o'clock. 
Logan, a partner in our team, took sick very sud- 
denly about noon this day about two miles 
this side Hot Springs. Driving on some few 
miles after noon, the disease came on in a very 
serious manner so that we were obliged to stop 
and camp. His strength failed rapidly and 
cramps in all his parts caused him very aggra- 
vating pains. Getting worse and worse and 
medical help having no effect on him we finally 
concluded that although unsuspected and how- 
ever sudden he would go home to his Father. 
Living on till sunrise next day, he died about 
five o'clock in the morning after a sickness of 
seventeen hours. This then is human life — to 
live, to eat, to propagate and die. We, from this 
eventful place which we left after interring the 
deceased, proceeded over a long ridge which, 
sloping upon the other side and ascending again, 
gradually descended, taking us a stretch of 

50 



twenty miles into the Humbolt Valley, the 
mountains of the same name being in view 
covered with the everlasting snows. We fol- 
lowed down the valley about eighteen miles 
and camped on the North Branch of Mary's 
River about three miles from where we forded it. 

July twenty-sixth. The road from the ford 
of the North Branch runs along a beautiful 
valley to where it joins the South Fork of 
Mary's River, twenty miles below the above 
mentioned point. Grass along this valley is 
more plentiful than any other place we found 
along the whole route. The water, although not 
very cool, is good. From the junction of the 
two forks, another valley commences, the river 
following it down for twenty-eight miles. At 
this point the road leaves the river for the 
bluffs after having previously come to the 
forks of the road, crossed the river four times 
within six miles and followed it down about 
ten miles further to a small tributary of Mary's 
River. 

From here when we started early next morn- 
ing, we had to travel over a section of moun- 
tains pretty steep and stony. Descending on 
the other side of these hills we met with several 
good springs on the road side and finally after 
a tedious forenoon's drive we struck the river 
again twenty miles from where we left it last. 
The roads along here being very sandy and so 
many teams passing ours it raises any amount 

51 



of dust which is very disagreeable to emigrants 
and hard on cattle. We followed the river for 
four miles when, finding good grass, we camped 
for the night. Twenty miles further down stream 
the main road takes to the right over the bluffs, 
another road crosses the river and follows down 
on the South side. The latter road is preferred 
in low water, being the best and shortest as 
well as having most grass on this side of Hum- 
bolt. About forty miles onwards where we 
forded the stream it — the road — takes up over 
a rough hill leaving the river at the ascent and 
coming to it again at the descent, about two 
miles distant. 

August the second. From this point the road 
takes over a hill about five miles long when it 
descends into the valley again. Pasture along 
here is poor, the bottom being mostly over- 
grown with sage. Although grass is scarce, for 
the whole journey the careful emigrants can 
always find sufficient feed for their cattle. 

The road follows down the valley in a parallel 
direction with the river for about twenty miles 
where it turns on an obtuse angle and runs off 
in a Southwest direction. Here the road takes 
over low sandy hills and along the banks of 
the river alternately. Twenty miles from our 
starting point, we encamped on the river 
banks. 

August the fifth. Ascended a hill about one- 
half mile on from our camp, pretty steep and 

52 



sandy. The road continues this way all along 
for about twenty miles more where it takes 
the bluffs for eighteen miles through a sandy 
desert about three or four miles parallel with 
the river. In the evening after a hard day's 
drive, we struck the river but did not meet with 
any grass which our starved animals badly 
needed. The following day we ascended the 
bluffs again for another eighteen miles desert 
having no grass nor water for the teams. Leav- 
ing, however, the main road and taking towards 
the river we got near enough to water our cattle, 
after which we drove on about four miles further 
and struck the river again finding tolerable 
good grass. Next day we started for the mead- 
ows and sink of Humbolt River. The distance 
to the former being about fifteen miles, roads 
bad, both sandy and hilly, no grass between, 
river handy enough in some places to water 
the stock. 

Saturday evening we arrived at the meadows, 
our teams weakened from want of grass and 
several days' hard pulling. From here to the 
edge of the desert it is about twenty-five miles 
which we made in three days, recruiting our 
stock, making grass and taking on water. 

Thursday afternoon, about three o'clock, we 
started with seven head of cattle and one horse, 
all of them in fair condition, for the desert — a 
distance of forty miles without water and grass, 
hilly and sandy roads. Thousands of dead cattle 

S3 



were lying along this road which had gone out 
at the previous emigration. One of our oxen 
gave out, detaining us for several hours. Slay- 
ing the latter however, we arrived safe although 
a very close call at Carson River. Here people 
from California have put up their shops, hav- 
ing liquor and fixtures for sale for the emigrants 
at high prices. Grass being scarce here we 
started up the river about five miles. Being 
about camping time and our cattle very tired 
we stopped for the night. 

From here we started the next morning hav- 
ing about five miles ahead a desert of thirteen 
miles. Before we started into the latter, we 
stopped and fed the teams for a few hours, 
then started on the said desert and the footers, 
among which I was, traveled up along the river, 
being higher and more pleasant than the main 
road. At the point where the latter strikes the 
river again we found good company which in- 
duced us to stop for the night, grass for our 
stock being plenty. From here the road takes 
over the bluffs, being sandy again as the day 
before and the country as poor as the deserts. 
Twelve miles' traveling took us to the river 
where we stopped and nooned. From here the 
road gets to be stony and sidling, hard on 
wagons and teams, leading over undulating 
ground all along. About twenty-five miles 
further ahead the road takes over a hill, a 
perfect desert. To the left of this is mining 

54 



carried on in a Canyon. Although it does not 
pay as well as some mines in California, still 
it allows fair wages to the diggers. Some of 
us, among them myself, would have stopped 
and dug here but for certain bondages which 
we could not get rid of without injuring our 
pecuniary interest. 

The distance here from the river to it again 
is thirteen miles, roads tolerably good. In the 
afternoon of this day (Sunday) we traveled 
over another sandy plain to the river, eight 
miles, where we camped over night and started 
Monday morning all hearty and well. During 
the day's travel we passed a good many trad- 
ing posts, crossing numerous mountain streams 
with good cold water. Grass along here is 
plenty so that stock as well as men do well in 
this valley. Another day's travel will take us 
to the foot of the Canyon which we ascend to 
take us to Hope Valley. To-day at noon we 
arrived within a few miles of the Canyon where 
we stopped for noon. Leaving this place we 
intend to ascend the ravine in the afternoon. 

We took into the Canyon on the morning of 
the eighteenth and ascending it we met the 
worst road on the whole route being both 
rocky and steep and extremely hard on cattle 
and wagons. The whole Canyon is sown with 
rocks (metamorphic species) thrown there in 
chaos by volcanic eruption and offers to the 
travelers with its steep pine clad mountains 



one of those grand scenes of nature which are 
only met with in mountainous or volcanic 
countries. Five or eight miles of the hardest 
traveling brought us into Hope Valley at the 
other side of the Canyon which we followed up 
to where the road takes the hills again and 
finding at this point some excellent pasture we 
encamped. 

We left our last night's camp where we suf- 
fered considerably by the cold and started to 
ascend the first of the mountains of the Nevada. 
The ascent is gradual for several miles till the 
road comes to red rock where it takes a sudden 
ascent for about one-half mile being very steep 
and rocky and undoubtedly constitutes with 
the yesterday's passed Canyon the greater part 
of the elephant which will be finished tomorrow 
by the steepest and highest ascent of the Sierra 
Nevada. Up this mountain we doubled teams 
and our wagons being light we arrived safely 
at the summit about seven thousand feet above 
the level of the sea. Grass being scarce here we 
descended about four miles on the other side of 
the mountain into a valley where we found some 
good feed along the lake shore. 

August twentieth. Started for the ascent of 
the last and highest mountain of the Sierra 
Nevada, taking first over a mountain of five 
hundred to one thousand feet in height which 
brought us to the foot of the last mountain, 
we began our ascent, but though it was very 

56 



stony and high, we had less difficulty in pass- 
ing over it than the one we ascended the day 
before. I myself arrived at the summit about 
ten o'clock where I disposed of our horse which 
had caused me a good deal of trouble. This done 
I took a view of the country around me. I 
always fancied to myself that the beauties of 
the mountainous countries were grand and 
sublime but never could I fully imagine such 
a vast and chaotic beautiful scene as I found 
here. The whole mountains are made up of 
metamorphic rocks, thrown here by volcanic 
causes. The mountains which extend around 
you, standing at the summit to the edge of 
the horizon are interrupted by alpine valleys 
filled with beautiful meadows and lakes of 
cold mountain water which help to make the 
grand scene of the mountains lovely and rural 
to the observer. 

We passed over the summit and drove on 
this day over mountain ridges and encamped 
at night at about the same level as we traveled 
over in the afternoon, finding some grass and 
water on the mountain side. 

The following day took up the fork of the 
road, the one to the right taking to Hangtown, 
the left hand one to Volcano. The distance 
from the fork to the latter place is about thirty- 
five miles, very hilly and extremely dusty, grass 
and water scarce — from ten to twenty miles 
apart in the valleys. 

57 



We arrived at Volcano August twenty-third 
and sold our stock the next day for the sum of 
three hundred dollars, making my share with 
our previous receipt for horse and one yoke of 
cattle, eighty -seven dollars and subtracting this 
from the whole of my expense leaves me ninety 
dollars debit to the journey. 

At Volcano is the first mining district met 
this side the Nevada and provisions being tol- 
erable cheap and some of the digging middling 
favourable some five of us concluded to stay 
here a while and try our luck. 

Sunday, August twenty-ninth. We went to 
work the second day from our arrival and sunk 
a shaft from ten to twelve feet deep at which 
depth we struck a lead paying us about eight 
to ten cents to the ton. Water which we hap- 
pened to strike got to be very troublesome, 
keeping us back considerably in our proceeding 
to get out the pay dirt for washing. All we earned 
up to the present is about four dollars. We 
calculate however to make more next week if 
we keep on at work steady and keep our health.^ 



'Evidently a journal was kept during eighteen hundred 
and fifty-three which has been lost. 



58 



Ill 



LAST YEARS IN CALIFORNIA- 
RETURN TO THE EAST 



Ill 

LAST YEARS IN CALIFORNIA— RETURN TO 
THE EAST 

April twenty-ninth, eighteen hundred and 
fifty-four. 

Several weeks have elapsed since closing my 
last journal to the present date of this entry, 
and longer still this interval might have been 
but for sickness, which keeps me from my daily 
task and compels me to pass the hours of ennui 
and solitude by such means as circumstances 
afford. Among these means, reading is my fav- 
orite occupation if the subject of it is attractive 
and pleasing and one main reason that my diary 
is not more regularly kept is because it is easier 
to read the productions of others' minds than 
to make efforts for a similar purpose ourselves. 
The efforts I am going to make are not to be 
compared to the writing of fictitious works, nor 
still less scientific essays but are simply to note 
down the most important occurrences of my 
career — a few abrupt ideas of my own and other 
men and some remarks upon the political and 
moral affairs of the world. 

Well then, to begin. I am at present as al- 
ready stated, compelled by sickness to stop in 
the house for an uncertain period of time which, 
however, I ardently hope may not fetter me 

61 



like the criminal to his cell longer than nature 
may possibly require to heal the diseased part 
of my body. This is a sore ankle, caused by the 
rubbing of the seams of a boot, which, as un- 
doubtedly a muscle or nerve was hurt, affects 
the whole system and gives me a good deal of 
pain. These things will, however, always happen 
and always by our own fault or carelessness — 
at least this is my case. Having this conviction 
one must try to take it as patiently as possible. 

Although rain in April is rather a rarity, still, 
we had several showers within the last week 
or so and a very wet night and forenoon today. 
This is a great benefit to the country, both to 
the vegetable and auriferous world. The former 
it animates while the water channels which it 
swells assist the miner in procuring the latter — 
ore. I have been tolerable successful for the 
last three months, averaging about five dollars 
per day with prospects of continuing so as long 
as may be water for our supply. The troubled 
state of our company has temporarily subsided. 
Which fact is more to be ascribed to the just 
mentioned success than to an alleviation of 
the antagonistic elements prevailing among us. 
This however is not looked for by myself, nor 
does it matter any in this case what the cause 
is, as long as the effect is good. 

Monday morning. May first, eighteen fifty- 
four. The merry blooming month of May has 
arrived and nature, shaking off the drowsi- 

62 



ness of Winter appears in all its beauty and 
splendor. A carpet of verdure variegated by 
the innumerable hues and shades of myriads 
of flowers, shrubs and trees, spreads over the 
crust of reanimated Mother Earth — which scen- 
ery, combined with the beautiful sky of a Cali- 
fornia heaven, grants a sublime sight to the 
beholder and admirer of the garden of nature. 
In gazing upon these fields, hills and dales, 
all in their bloom and vernal beauty; upon the 
pure sky that overspreads and adds to their 
grandeur — the mind gradually loses itself in 
meditation and deep thought. Minor objects 
lose their hold upon us and higher, nobler 
sentiments take their place. In such sacred 
moments the empire of the mind reigns and we 
truly live. The grand and wonderful effect of 
a great unknown first cause meets us at every 
side — and while admiring the former we won- 
der at the magnitude and goodness of the latter. 
We try to penetrate the darkness which veils 
that unknown from our sight and behold the 
prima facie — till now only known by its reflec- 
tions. Besides this desire to find and look upon 
the omnipotent, other thoughts and images 
rise before our mind's eye. While looking at 
some green and blooming spot, moments of 
the past or rather, recollections associated 
with those gone-by hours, those blooming 
fields, crowd in. We think of the innocent joys 
of those playfellows that loved us, of a kind 

6Z 



Mother that received us when we, flushed and 
exhausted arrived home to refresh and rest our- 
selves, who would lay her hand upon our fore- 
head to dry the perspiration and brush aside 
our hair to restore our infant beauty, and, with 
those benign eyes looking upon us, would 
with her lips which always were so fond of 
kissing — express her fears that we would over- 
heat ourselves and take sick. I would begin to 
cry and promise to be more careful in the future. 
Yes, these are recollections which will cheer 
the darkest and increase the fullness of the 
happiest moments of our life. 

May nineteenth, eighteen fifty -four. I am 
well once more, enjoying the blessedness derived 
from such a state. I have just returned after a 
day's work and having an hour to spare from 
this to dark I thought to dedicate the same to 
scrawl down a few lines in these memoirs. 

Although this is early May — the middle of 
Spring, we have already the warmer days of 
August and the ground which had hardly got 
a good soaking during Winter is dry now as 
ever it gets in our Northern States. So with 
the vegetables. The flora and fauna of the 
country, which have already seen their in- 
fancy — although now everything is verdant and 
budding — in but a short month more will 
pass away and the green will change to yellow, 
the bud to the ripened fruit and all nature put 
on the attire of mellow Fall, and be finally re- 

64 



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suscitated by deluges of rain which pour down 
in Winter in this country. If ever by some nat- 
ural change this country shall be blessed by 
seasonable rains through the Summer, it will 
undoubtedly exert a most beneficial influence 
upon the soil of the land and make agricultural 
business more permanent and profitable and 
vastly benefit the mining community and make 
living itself more pleasant and comfortable 
on the shores of the Pacific. There is a certain 
fact which manifests itself in new settled coun- 
tries — namely, that the amount of rain which 
falls every year increases in proportion to the 
cultivation and irrigation of the soil. At Salt 
Lake, and so here, when settlers first arrived 
rain was hardly known to fall but has increased 
in amount every year since that period. This 
is a fact experience has taught us to hold true 
although its cause is hardly known. 

The merry month of May has passed away; 
June holds reign over prairie, hills and dales. 
The weather in general is just warm enough to 
make it pleasant to work — which in itself is 
pain enough without having it doubled by ex- 
posure to a scorching sun. A pleasant breeze 
being wafted up from the smooth waters of 
the Pacific moderates the climate to a genial 
warmth which only for want of sufficient rain 
would be as beautiful as any person could wish 
for. But from a want of this infinitely useful 
element at the proper season of the year, the 

65 



soil, otherwise fertile produces but little vege- 
tation. July generally sees this dying off for 
want of moisture. Still there are many fertile 
spots in the valleys watered by mountain 
streams which intersect the country — heading 
in the snow clad mountains and pouring their 
icy waters like veins into the heart of the coun- 
try to give vigor and health to the country in 
their proximity. A traveler therefore can see 
in one day's journey and less both the budding 
and refreshing Spring and the yellow Autumn, 
the former in the valleys, the latter in the higher 
parts of the land. It is on highlands that these 
lines are written — with a valley spread at the 
foot of it, which extends to the Coast Range 
of mountains whose outlines I can plainly trace 
on the horizon and this minute its highest 
peaks stand out in bold relief, illuminated by 
the setting sun close upon their brow. Ten 
minutes more — they will hide it from view 
wliere, in the pacific waters of the broad Ocean 
it will seek a resting place after its daily journey 
through the heavens, to rise with new splendor 
and magnificence in the morning. To many 
thousands who gaze upon the rising and setting 
of the sun its movement from East to West is 
still a great mystery. 

September twelfth, eighteen fifty-four. Over 
three months have passed since I made my last 
entry in this journal and not only have I 
changed my residence but my profession. I 

66 



have exchanged the miner for the confinements 
of the Store Room to which I intend to adhere 
in the future. 

July and August passed in indolence and 
mental indifference. It is but a few days back 
that I left off mining and find myself now 
comfortably seated in my store writing these 
notes. This place — French Hill — is within one- 
half mile of Camp Secco which was destroyed 
by fire about three weeks ago, which however 
by the enterprise of its inhabitants is rapidly 
building up and this time is an improved place. 
The place of present residence is rapidly spring- 
ing up into a little village as yet nameless 
from its recent date and gives fair promise 
towards a prosperous business. That this may 
be the case is my earnest wish, as I hope to 
realize if no unforeseen mishaps befall me — 
enough to leave California for a better home far 
to the East. 

February, eighteen fifty-five. Four months 
have passed away since I made the last notes 
but although the above dates indicate the 
Winter season when in the Eastern States snow 
and frost are plenty, we still enjoy as beautiful 
warm and dry weather as one can wish for — no 
snow, nor cold chilly days but pleasant weather 
in their place. As miners mainly depend upon 
the rain to wash their dirt, hove up throughout 
a period of nine months, a failure of it in Winter 
when it is anxiously looked for is a great disap- 

67 



pointment to the miners all over the country. 
When mining is stopped, everything else is 
dull and depressed. We may have some rain 
yet for California presents such a strange in- 
stance of change that it is hard to tell when it 
will come. It is this morning cloudy and has 
every indication of rain. Three or four weeks 
of even moderate rain would furnish a great 
deal of water — the great commodity for the 
miner. 

There appears to be at present a general de- 
pression in business all over the country, 
money tight and provisions dear and labor 
scarce. Heavy failures happen almost daily 
in the Atlantic Cities. Houses which enjoyed 
the greatest public confidence and patronage 
are suspending payment, not being able to pay 
their liabilities by a fearful amount. Even 
Page and Bacon, one of the best and wealthi- 
est banking houses in the Union, has suspended 
payment which, however, is more ascribed to 
the detention of gold shipments from California 
than to deficiency of funds. The main cause 
for all this embarrassment in the money mar- 
ket appears to lie in the heavy export of gold to 
England in exchange for English manufactures 
and in the extravagance of our bankers, brokers 
and merchant princes in the last ten years. 
Nothing but a stoppage in the import of foreign 
manufacture and a more industrious sort of 
living will save this country from bankruptcy. 

68 



Even here, the great source of wealth for the 
last six years, the pressure is felt. Gold diggings 
are getting scarcer all the time and as living is 
almost as dear as in forty-nine and fifty when 
it was easier to make an ounce than it is at the 
present day to make a dollar — it is easy to ima- 
gine how oppressive the hard times must be. 
The business I am engaged in at the present 
yields but a very small profit for everything 
in the mercantile line is high in the market and 
as miners reap but a very scant harvest for 
their labor one has to sell just as low as admis- 
sible. Profits therefore are but small. Still, 
making a little is better than making nothing 
at all and as long as this can be done I intend to 
stop here. 

March second. Again I pick up the pen to 
make a few notes in this diary to keep the links 
in the chain of events which happen in this dull 
life of mine. While writing these lines the cool 
breezes wafted from the broad Pacific stir the 
warm air which was throughout the day oppres- 
sive and in the hours of twilight grant comfort 
and ease to the inhabitants of hot climates. 
The weather now is already as hot as it ever 
gets in the middle of the Summer at home. Yes 
— I believe that the mercury is higher now than 
it ever gets there. This being only March, 
when they at home have still snow storms and 
frost, we have beautiful Spring and nature is 
already attired in her sprightly dress of green 

69 



variegated with flowers of all hues and shapes. 
Trees assume their verdant garments and along- 
side of streamlets adorn the garden of nature. 
Oh! nature, grand and beautiful art thou! Beau- 
tiful in every scene that meets our eye — the 
streamlet which meanders through pleasant 
valleys by picturesque hills ornamented by 
vines, with the contented peasant gathering 
the grapes. Mountains with their highest 
peaks covered with everlasting snows meet our 
looks in the far off horizon and crown with 
sublimity the rural beauties of the hills and 
vales at their foot. Man himself feels stronger 
and of higher spirits in the Spring of the year, 
the purity of the air and the balmy smell 
which emanates from flowers, shrubs and trees 
exhilarate the soul and body of every animated 
organic being. In time all this changes to yellow 
as their life runs out and their vitality, their 
sweet smell are dried up by the tropical heat 
of the South to rest and gather life and nutri- 
ment anew from Mother Earth. 

Man, too, undergoes this change that every- 
thing in nature is subjected to. His life com- 
pares favourably with the changes in the vege- 
table world. First, tender and weak he gains 
care and attention, strength of body and mind. 
In the Springtime of life, his beauty is of the 
noblest kind and life is constant happiness. 
As time rolls on his body and mind mature, 
he becomes wiser and abler and in this estate 

70 



of manhood acts and operates for himself and 
fellowmen. This is the most useful part of 
man's career and as he grows older he loses the 
vigour he formerly possessed and at the end — 
in the Winter of his life droops down, grows 
weaker and weaker until finally his career is run 
and he has to join Mother Earth again to serve 
some new purpose in the organization of nature. 
There is one great invention which will ever 
illumine the time between the Dark Ages and 
the present epoch. An invention which is as 
remarkable for its intensity of light as the 
Middle Ages for their impenetrable darkness 
and consequent superstition. This is the in- 
vention of printing by John Guttenburg of 
Metz in Germany in fourteen hundred and forty. 
By one sublime thought which struck the mind 
of a single man or more properly, by the divine 
inspiration of a single human being, benefits as 
great and incalculable were bestowed upon 
mankind as universal space itself is infinite and 
beyond human calculation. Before that time 
all learning was limited to one class — the Clergy 
of all countries, who had it in their power to 
devote time which was at their own disposal 
to literary pursuits, in which they had great 
assistance in the manuscripts of former ages, 
therefore enjoyed already although to a limited 
extent the blessings which the art of printing 
afterwards bestowed more universally upon the 
mass of mankind. 

71 



We all know now that as much as man is 
superior and master of all other animals, so 
is the intelligent and well informed, master of 
the ignorant and superstitious. The priests 
therefore of former ages — since they possessed 
knowledge above the rest of mankind were to 
a great extent the masters and in consequence 
ruled with a stronger rod than ever any mon- 
arch ruled his subject since printing and conse- 
quent knowledge became more diffused among 
the masses of mankind. When books, in con- 
sequence of their cheapness became plentier 
and the masses became possessed of the same — 
light began to penetrate the utter darkness 
which formerly reigned supreme in the mind of 
man and in a comparatively short period of 
time since the death of this inventor, the human 
family has made a more rapid and greater pro- 
gress in science and useful knowledge than was 
made in all time before that great event. 

March twenty -eighth, eighteen hundred and 
fifty -eight. Left this day Camp Secco — where I 
had been stopping for three years doing busi- 
ness, such as groceries and miners' implements. 
My success has been pretty good — might how- 
ever have been better. Still I don't complain. 
Although I have not made as much as many a 
one has done in the same length of time, still 
I am satisfied. 

The time while there passed dully enough 
with me, arising from the want of desirable 

72 



company and the non-existence of any places 
of amusement. I had lots of time to myself 
and had I been so disposed, had I possessed 
different mental stamina, force, energy and 
perseverance, I might easily have acquired a 
store of useful knowledge. But it is of no use a- 
croaking now. The time has fled and in place 
of enjoying at present a cultivated mind I 
hardly realize ideas enough to make me sen- 
sible that I am an intelligent, animated being. 
And it always will be so with me. I think nature 
is more to blame for it than I myself. Had I 
been endowed with Genius great, with even the 
present balance of mind I think I should have 
made a great man. I tried once, years ago, 
to obtain a lofty position in science, labored 
hard and long and what was the result? A 
machine capable of a certain amount of labor 
laid out for it. Nothing else. I had no thought 
nor ideas of my own of the least practical use. 
I had better then be satisfied. Although I might 
possess a great deal more, still I don't think 
that it would materially benefit my happiness 
here. 

April twentieth, eighteen hundred and fifty- 
eight. This day at ten o'clock, I left the wharf 
of San Francisco on the steamboat Golden Age 
for the Atlantic States — for my home in old 
Virginia and my friends. 

I came to this country on the twentieth day 
of August eighteen hundred and fifty-two — 

7Z 



making the time that I have been here, five 
years and eight months to a day. My success 
here, if not what it might have been, still 
yielded me a small capital — enough to start 
me in business most anywhere and consequently 
by proper management, diligence and industry, 
I shall be enabled to get along in this world 
comfortably. Had I mentally as well improved 
as I did my pecuniary circumstances, I should 
be well enough satisfied. This, however, is not 
the case and for this reason and this reason 
alone am I sorry that I ever came to California. 
Had I remained at home, associated as I was 
with men of intelligence and in a pursuit where 
mental effort was required I would now un- 
questionably be a smarter if not equally as 
rich a man. My mind, although naturally 
sterile, by proper care and pains would have 
been cultivated; my taste beautified; my feel- 
ings and sentiments ennobled. In short, I 
believe that I would have been a wiser, better, 
and in consequence a happier man than I am 
now. Still, courage, "faint heart," the future 
may even yet bestow on you content and happi- 
ness. 

I am tracing these lines in the steerage on 
board the steamer, looking through a port hole 
onto the wide dark blue ocean of the Pacific, 
which is laid before my eyes in every direction 
to the far off horizon. How monotonous it 
seems to me. There are no hills nor mountains 

74 



in the background of the vast rolling Pacific 
before me. No trees, bushes, plants of any kind; 
nor is there an animated being to be seen — 
unless once in a while a shark or whale will 
show themselves to our greedy eyes which long 
for something else than boundless waters. 

There is something fearful in the fact that 
there is nothing between destruction and the 
ocean tossed mariner but some frail planks which 
half a dozen accidents may dislodge and send 
him to the deep bottom of the pitiless sea. 
Such is man in his wild career in pursuit of 
wealth and power that he will entrust his life, 
his all, to a frail bark which the winds may toss 
on rocks and breakers from which there is 
no salvation. These things are painfully clear 
to me now that there is no escape from them 
and though I am not absolutely afraid, still I 
know that there are many chances which may 
destroy us. Who knows — many a stout vessel 
with passengers ever as sanguine of a safe voyage 
left a safe haven never to reach the place of 
their destination. This may be our — yes, my — 
fate. Still I will hope for the best. Hope that 
our voyage across the treacherous ocean may 
be a safe one and carry us to a safe Port at 
Panama. We have thus far enjoyed fine weather, 
a calm sea, and I have enjoyed thus far tolerable 
good health. 

Distance from San Francisco to Panama, 
three thousand, two hundred and sixty -two miles. 

75 



Saturday, April twenty-fifth. The coast was 
out of sight since the second morning and reap- 
peared this morning, running for miles almost 
level then suddenly turning abruptly into 
craggy headlands, standing out grotesque in 
the background of the otherwise monotonous 
ocean. And this is certainly a great relief after 
gazing day after day upon the same far extend- 
ing, swaying, rippling ocean, with nothing for 
the eye after exhausting the utmost power of 
vision to rest on, but a hazy horizon touching 
the blue expanse of waters. 

The weather has been, up to this, clear and 
pleasant, perhaps a little cold at first but now 
really very charming. The sea has been tol- 
erably quiet and smooth so we have had but 
little sickness on board — less than I expected 
to see. How old I am getting though. While 
writing this, my feet pain me which has been 
the case for the last four months. Also my 
teeth which are mostly decayed and even my 
energies are dormant. I, who once set myself 
the great task of studying a profession — now can 
hardly even concentrate enough thought to 
note down a few sensible ideas. Yes, I am surely 
grown old very fast in the last three years. 
I can feel both in mind and body. The latter 
is invariably inclined to indolence. The former 
to downright dormancy. Oh, could I regain 
the play of my imagination, the buoyancy of 
thought which I once possessed; could I possess 

76 



myself of ambition, pride, to stimulate me, all 
j'^et might be right and it is to have the former 
forced upon me by circumstances more or less 
that I reseek the scenes of my former home, 
hoping that in the wild and exciting race there 
for wealth and position I too may be roused 
enough to take a share. 

April twenty-sixth. We passed Cape St. 
Lucas on the night of the twenty-fourth and 
ran yesterday across the mouth of the Gulf of 
California which I believe is here one hundred 
and sixty miles wide. While doing so we lost 
sight of the coast which, however, reappeared 
this morning at daylight. The coast here pre- 
sents a succession of ridges rising higher back 
towards the land — the whole, however, broken 
up into abrupt peaks rising from four to five 
hundred feet above the sea level. Occasionally 
a high cliff stands boldly out into the sea — its 
foot washed by the eternal breakers. The whole 
of them are covered with a short low shrubbery 
which is now colored in a reddish dress being in 
blossom at present. 

After running down the coast about fifty 
miles, we doubled a headland and turned into 
a short bay at the East side of which is the vil- 
lage of Mansenilla inhabited by Mexicans who 
under supervision of Government officers carry 
on silver mining here. The appearance of every- 
thing here, the woods, houses and men would 
indicate that we are in a warmer climate, if 



the weather did not. The people themselves 
wear clothing, as may be judged by its scanti- 
ness, to hide their nakedness rather than for 
protection against the climate. Their color is 
slightly coppery, almost as much so as our Cali- 
fornia Indians. Their houses too are more 
built as a shelter from the tropical sun than 
against the rigours of a cold country, they 
being the roughest, simplest kind of huts built 
out of timber and brush. We lay here about an 
hour during which time we sent two passengers 
ashore in one of our boats, while a number of 
natives in dugouts swarmed around the vessel, 
called out, I presume, more on account of the 
novelty of our presence than any other notion. 

We are now on our onward voyage, standing 
out to sea while the coast range of mountains 
is still at our left. Yesterday being Sunday and 
having several soul savers on board we had of 
course preaching — and enough of it — as much 
as three times. I think were we all put through 
the same task every day for the next three 
months it would either make us the most ortho- 
dox Christians or else disgusted with Chris- 
tianity. The whole of them, the sermons, 
amounted to the same old rigmarole, — believe 
and be saved — disbelieve and you are doomed 
to hell and everlasting punishment. 

We arrived at Acapulco this day, the twenty- 
eighth of April. This is a Spanish town, situ- 
ated on one of the best harbors on the Pacific 

78 



Coast. It forms a perfect elbow in shape and 
is therefore perfectly water locked and on that 
account offers safe mooring to vessels. How 
strange the contrast between a Spanish and 
an American town — the latter enjoying all the 
health and vigor and activity of youth, pro- 
gress. In the former it is an eternal stand still, 
no activity of any kind, no display of the least 
spirit or energy is to be met with here. Action, 
perpetual action, is the characteristic of the 
American. The want of all life, of the least 
healthy action so necessary to the existence of 
a people is to be found in Mexico. They, the 
people, are lazy, indolent by nature. All they 
ever strive for is to acquire enough of the sim- 
plest necessaries of life and they are satisiSed 
if not happy. Toil is unknown to them and 
leisure is their status quo. They show this 
fact in everything — in the way they dress, 
wearing nothing but just enough to cover 
their nakedness. Their homes are builded of 
mud, covered with old fashioned tiles or with 
straw, and present more the appearance of 
fortified places than of dwellings. They (the 
houses) most all have piazzas where the greater 
portion of the inhabitants pass — in smoking 
and talking and sleeping — their days, yes, the 
greater portion of their life. The streets are 
made of sandstone slabs or else hewn in the 
same as it lies. As there is never hardly any 
rain here, and the town being built on solid 

79 



sandstone foundations, they are of course per- 
fectly clean which, as already intimated, is 
owing more to the nature of the site than to 
the cleanliness and industry of the people. 

The town is situated on the North West side 
of the Bay and consists of several streets filled 
up by mud houses as already stated. North 
from the town, about one-half mile distant, 
lies the fort on a slight elevation sloping on 
the East toward the sea. The site is a very fav- 
ourable one as it can command the harbor with 
its guns, having enough of the latter to sink 
any vessel which may try to force its entrance 
in time of war. The fort itself is builded in 
the shape of a square, with several embattle- 
ments. Its walls rise about thirty feet from 
the bottom of the trench which is of a depth 
of about ten feet and surrounds the whole. 
The entrance is afforded by a drawbridge 
through a door fronting the town. The soldiers 
are but a sorry set and I doubt, very little cal- 
culated to do war time service. I judge their 
bravery by the general character of the Mexi- 
can people — which I know in the main to be 
cowardly. I presume the soldiers — which are 
by the by, the most ragged set I have ever seen, 
having neither uniform nor even shoes, march- 
ing and countermarching like a lot of beggars 
on the street with no military rearing whatever 
— will be the same. If I am allowed to judge 
Mexico by this town of Acapulco — which has 

80 



all the advantage of a most favoured situation 
as seaport and in consequence is well fitted for 
commerce, it is certainly a most neglected coun- 
try and with the resources it possesses both in 
mineral and agricultural wealth it cannot be 
doubted but what it would soon in the hands 
of our people be one of the richest as well as 
loveliest countries in the world. This, however, 
seems to be its ultimate fate. Years may inter- 
vene but it must most surely eventually give 
way to the rapid strides of an onward moving 
civilization. When that day will come — that 
Mexico shall add another star to our illustrious 
country — is not for me to say. I hope, however, 
for the sake of the Mexican people themselves 
and for the sake of the numerous resources the 
country offers that it may soon come. 

We left Acapulco Bay about five o'clock this 
afternoon and stood out to sea. We are now 
within three days of Panama, in fact nearer, 
but it will take three days to make it. 

This is the first day of May. Lovely May has 
come around once more and Spring with its 
fine bracing breezes has set in. We are even 
now within ten degrees of the Equator, enjoy- 
ing the benefit of it in the Trades which blow 
from the South East. The next morning after 
we left Acapulco, I believe, we found ourselves 
in the Gulf of Tehuantepeck which was toler- 
able rough. I was taken sea-sick, that most 
terrible of all sicknesses. After three days' 

81 



suffering, I have gotten better. Still, even now 
I feel the sensation of it in my throat. Still, I 
think that I have seen the worst of it. If so, I 
shall not lament it, as I think it will secure me 
good health for a while. 

Although in the tropics, we have enjoyed till 
now cool and extremely pleasant weather with 
beautiful star and moonlight nights and the 
bright expanse of ocean round us, with our vessel 
like a thing of life moving along upon its bosom, 
and in the dark, at twilight before the moon is 
up, what splendid sight is revealed to the trav- 
eller of the sea. I mean the bright brilliant 
sparks and flashes which emit from the spray- 
ing sheets which our cutwater sends off at both 
sides of our vessel — caused by friction upon 
the phosphorescent matter contained in the 
water of the ocean. 

May second. This morning the land, consisting 
of detached ranges of mountains, again came 
in sight, and now, five o'clock P.M. we are 
abreast of an island to the left. This isle is 
very heavily timbered; the whole of it is a 
mountain of about one hundred and fifty feet 
high with a small point of level country at the 
Eastern end of it. 

May third. We came up to another island 
this morning, thickly covered with timber and 
vegetation of tropical growth. We kept now 
in sight of land all the time, numbers of islands 
being to our left and towards evening the Bay 

82 



of Panama came in sight. This Bay is of large 
dimensions and very secure, being well shel- 
tered by islands and the main coast. We passed 
Tobanga Island where the W. S. M. Company 
has a station where they repair and clean their 
vessels when at Panama. We entered the Bay 
and dropped anchor twenty minutes past seven 
o'clock A.M. The next morning at four we 
took the ferry boat for the wharfs, arrived there, 
took the cars across the Isthmus of Darien to 
Aspinwall on the Gulf of Mexico. All the sec- 
tion of country we crossed over on the cars 
offered a most beautiful sight. It is more or less 
mountainous and covered with one emerald 
sheet of thick and almost impenetrable highly 
perfumed tropical vegetation. I could not dis- 
cover any trees nor plants of the moderate zones 
— all being the products of the tropics. This 
country, but for the extreme heat and the 
malaria it must necessarily create from its 
numerous swamps, would be almost a Paradise 
to live in. If Americans should ever possess it 
and be able to live there, they in truth will 
make it indeed what it seems intended for by 
nature — one of the loveliest spots the world 
knows. Aspinwall is a new place and traces 
its origin to the discovery of the gold mines 
in California and the subsequent travel across 
the Isthmus. It is principally inhabited by 
natives of Central America, some French and 
some Americans. The latter, however, being the 

83 



only influential portion of the community. 
They have made it and named it what it is 
this day. They own the railroad and a large 
depot three hundred by one hundred feet, fire 
proof, and a very commodious dock for the 
handling of the mail steamers and oJBBces to 
carry on their business. 

We left the docks of Aspinwall about four 
o'clock. The trip across the Isthmus occupied 
about five hours, so that we got to Aspinwall 
about twelve and had from then till four at the 
latter place. 

May fifth. The Star of the West, the boat I 
am now on, is not near as large nor as good a 
boat as the steamer on the other side. Still, 
if she only brings us safe to New York I shall 
be satisfied well enough. I perceive by the latest 
New York news that yellow fever broke out on 
the U. S. S. frigate Susquehanna and at the 
Central American Port of St. James. If I dread 
anything, I dread that and I hope to God it 
will not appear on board of this bark. If it 
should be doomed to that, God only knows 
what its effect might be. I must hope for the 
best. We are only about a week's sail from 
New York. Still, how uncertain is our arrival 
there considering the numerous accidents which 
we are apt to encounter, which may finish our 
existence before we once more set our feet on 
blessed Mother Earth. 

Distance across the Isthmus from Panama 

84 



to Aspinwall on Navy Bay (Colon) forty-five 
miles. Distance to New York one thousand 
one hundred miles. 

Another bright day has risen over the water 
and a slight breeze stiffens our sails, carrying 
us homewards. I am still in bad health, my 
stomach being completely deranged and in con- 
sequence can't enjoy the trip as well as I other- 
wise might were I in good health. 

The steamboat New Grenada which started 
one hour before us from Aspinwall has been 
more or less in sight since we left that Port and 
now is about ten miles astern of us. Last eve- 
ning about five o'clock P.M. we passed the 
island of Providence to our right. This Island 
like all the rest I have seen on this trip is moun- 
tainous and thickly timbered. As there were 
fires on the coast I presume it must be inhabited 
and there are undoubtedly spots on it under 
cultivation. All the country in these lower 
latitudes is very fertile, producing luxurious 
growths of most all the tropical fruits. 

Providence is about two hundred and forty 
miles North East of North from Aspinwall. This 
being the course we have steered since we left 
there. Now we are steering due North. 

May ninth. In the evening of the seventh we 
came in sight of the lighthouse of Saint Antoin — 
the S. W. Cape of Cuba. This night and the 
next day, the eighth, we cruised along side of 
Cuba for some three hundred miles. We came 

85 



opposite to Havana about five o'clock on the 
eighth. Havana is builded close to the shore, 
seemingly resting upon the water. The ground 
back of it is higher and portions of the town 
are builded there. The main city, however, is 
at the water's edge. Morro Castle, the fort at 
the Harbor, is at the North East part of the 
City. We sailed within about five miles of 
the City. The above were all the points I 
could scan at this distance. Having struck the 
Gulf Stream, the sea became rougher and I, 
in consequence, sick again and feel miserable 
while scribbling this. I have the more reason 
to wish myself safe on shore at New York, 
having ascertained today the fact of the unsea- 
worthiness of our boat. The Florida reefs — 
keys — came in sight this forenoon and are still 
in sight. They are low lands, or rather are 
elevated reefs, thinly timbered and dreaded, 
on account of the reefs and rocks in the neigh- 
borhood, by the mariner. 

We arrived on the night of Wednesday, May 
twelfth, in sight of the Long Island and Sandy 
Hook Lights and after having taken on a Pilot 
we entered Sandy Hook and passing into New 
York Harbor arrived at the city about five 
o'clock in the morning of the thirteenth of 
May. 

Here then I am in New York — the Empire 
City of America — the greatest commercial port 
in the American Continent and the World. Its 

86 



tonnage is larger than that of any other Port 
city I beHeve in the World. While it is con- 
nected by the Ocean with all Foreign Countries, 
it is likewise so with all the important cities 
of the United States by railroads and steamboat 
conveyance. 

I remained at New York till the twenty-first 
instant. During my stay here I visited the 
different theaters. The Laura Keene on Broad- 
way was the handsomest I had ever seen in 
America, and what was still better, the acting 
was equally good and, as the building, the best 
I had ever the pleasure to see in this country. 
The Crystal Palace I saw from the outside only. 
The whole is built of iron. Its model is chaste 
and displays a good deal of art and beauty. 
The Palace is surrounded by an iron railing 
and between it and the building intervenes a 
beautiful green sward. East from the Palace 
is the reservoir of the great Croton water works 
which supply the whole of New York with 
water which is brought some twenty-five or 
thirty miles to this grand reservoir, built of 
solid masonry and occupying a large area of 
ground. From here the water is distributed 
over the whole city for drinking, culinary and 
manufacturing purposes. Another place of 
great celebrity, Barnum's Museum, of Ameri- 
can wide fame, was also visited by me. Here 
are stored in rich profusion treasures of the ani- 
mal world both of land and sea. Also a good 

87 



gathering of antiquities of almost all portions 
of the world, and several statues of fame and 
renown. Among them are the wax models of 
the Emperor of Russia, Joseph of Austria, 
Napoleon III and Queen Victoria of England, 
and last but not least Kossuth and Napoleon 
Bonaparte and the notorious Mrs. Cunningham 
in whose eyes passion and crime but great 
beauty is also written. Among the persons of 
higher renown is Mary the Mother of Jesus. 
Animals of all kinds and species are amassed 
here in great variety too numerous to mention. 
They are mostly stuffed except numerous fresh 
and salt water fishes which are kept alive here 
enjoying their native element in large tanks. 
The large boa constrictor and another large 
snake are also kept living here by means of 
artificial heat supplied them. Among the an- 
tiques are coins of centuries long since passed. 
American state documents of the last century, 
flags and arms of the Revolutionary and Indian 
wars. Among the latter a number of tomahawks, 
spears, battleaxes, etc. Curiosities from China 
and Japan are also here in this great multum 
in parvo. Also a large metallurgical collection 
with minerals of all kinds. A Panorama with 
representation of many beautiful scenes from 
Italy, France and Austria is found here. The 
pictures of the celebrated Generals and States- 
men of American History as those of celebrated 
men and women of the present day adorn its 



walls. The exposition in this Museum is so 
grand and my survey of its treasures was so 
short and superficial that I am not able to 
relate and specify them any plainer or with 
greater accuracy. I was, however, well pleased 
the few hours I remained there and considered 
that time spent to exceeding great purpose. 

New York has many beautiful buildings and 
the Fifth Avenue is a street of palaces and in 
my opinion compares favourably with any street 
of any city in the World. Here reside the rich- 
est people in the city. None but nabobs being 
able to exist in the air of this moneyed Ameri- 
can aristocracy. If the insides of these dwell- 
ings enjoy corresponding happiness with all 
these luxurious surroundings is not for the 
people to know. Still, as nothing in this world 
is all blessedness and sunshine, one may well 
suppose that too, in these grand dwellings 
wretchedness and heartburnings may be met. 
The great enterprise of New York at present 
upon which succeeding ages will bestow all 
gratitude is the building of a grand Park where 
the thousands of this city — the rich, the poor, 
the highly bom and lowly may pass moments 
of pleasure and rest from the noise and tur- 
moil of the city and acquire strength and 
cheerfulness for the hard tasks of every day life. 

I left New York City on the twenty-first 
instant for Philadelphia — the Quaker City — 
where I arrived at four o'clock P.M. This, 

89 



which I always supposed to be the handsomest 
city in America, I am sorry that I am compelled 
to state, disappointed all my bright anticipa- 
tion of its beauties. It is true, being consider- 
ably exhausted by much traveling and having 
my thirst for sight-seeing considerably abated 
at New York, I was not exactly in a condition 
to receive grand and stunning impressions. Had 
I arrived here first, fresh from the mountains 
of California instead of New York, Philadelphia 
might have impressed me with feelings of 
admiration and satiated my desire to view 
architectural and artistic beauties to its full. 
As it is — New York had the precedence in my 
visit and with the remembrance of its grandeur 
fresh upon my mind, I am obliged to admit 
that the City of Penn fell short in its treasures 
of beauty of what I hoped and wished to find. 
Here, however, as is universally the case, are 
exceptions to be met. Only had I hoped the 
inverted to be the case — namely that beauties 
might be the rule and common appearance the 
exception. I refer to the Institution which will 
for a far off future immortalize the name it 
bears — I mean Girard College. This is as far as 
I have knowledge, the handsomest and grace- 
fullest edifice in America. At the time of day 
I went to visit it, I could not get admittance and 
my view of it was in consequence indistinct from 
the walls and distance that intervened. Still, 
I saw enough fully to sustain the above opinion. 

90 



The edifice is large in size, surrounded by a 
portico ornamented by Corinthian Columns of 
the chastest workmanship. The material which 
composes its grand walls is I believe, fine 
marble. This, the main edifice, has two addi- 
tional buildings on each side — two for the male 
and two for the female pupils. Beautiful 
grounds, planted with handsome trees and flower 
beds intersected by gravel walks surround the 
buildings. The whole again is enclosed by a 
big wall to keep the outer world from intruding 
and marring the quiet and beauty within. 
Girard, the founder, once poor but rich in 
thought, energy, and perseverance, accumulated 
by well applied industry and diligence a princely 
fortune of which he the greater portion, $800,- 
000, bestowed upon the orphans of Philadelphia 
in the most generous and useful way in this, 
the greatest American Orphan College. He, 
in his will forbade the introduction of any 
religion for educational purposes and also, 
the entrance of any of its apostles within the 
walls. And who will blame him for this sweeping 
and, by many condemned as sinful, prescrip- 
tion? It was not the want of faith of the man 
in an all ruling Deity. No, but quite otherwise, 
his high regard for the same, which guided him 
in this action. Knowing as we all know of the 
great variety of religious communities, all 
differing with one another, yes, in many cases 
condemning one another, he thought well and 

91 



justly so to keep the infant mind free of the 
different feuds and enmities of the different sects. 
His purpose was to give them an enhghtened 
education, to acquaint their mind with facts, 
with events and their causes and effects — 
so that when ripened and matured into men and 
women free from all prejudices, they might 
themselves be enabled by pure and cultivated 
thought to form a just and enlightened opinion 
of their own about religion and its principles 
and aim and purpose. Is it not better so to 
have the mind of the to-man-grown boy and 
the mind of the girl who has reached woman- 
hood unfettered by stubborn prejudices, per- 
haps with hatred against its fellow creatures, 
than to have it in its infancy so directed as to 
make it almost impossible to allow them differ- 
ent views and opinions from those early im- 
planted upon the infant mind? I approve the 
motive and can appreciate the intelligence and 
foresight of the mind of its originator. Honor 
and blessing be to him — Girard — one of the 
great benefactors of the poor. 

From here I continued my journey by the 
P. C. R. R. via Harrisburg over the Alleghenys 
to Pittsburg, and from there took the steamer 
to Wheeling the home of my brother Frederic 
and his family. I parted from them, New Year 
eighteen fifty -one and as I, in the Spring of the 
same year, left for California from which I 
have only now returned, I had not seen them 

92 



since. My arrival seemed to give them great 
pleasure and all subsequent appearances seemed 
to warrant the genuineness of their display 
of affectionate feelings. I trust this may really 
be the case. That sincerity and not an un- 
nobler motive was at the bottom of the lavished 
kindness. I know the value of a true, sincere, 
noble affection and love so that I am always prone 
to suspect its genuineness when too freely and 
plentifully offered. I still trust it may have been 
real in this case. Brother Henry who resides 
at Sunfish, Munro Co., Ohio, I also visited for 
five or six days and passed the time right cheer- 
fully whilst there. Henry is an honest soul, 
true and sincere, incapable of deception. Both 
brothers wished me to remain with them and 
join them in business. Their wishes, however, 
I saw best to decline. I am certain that by 
separation we can harbor more and better affec- 
tion between us. Then the place and its environs 
did not suit my taste for a life long Home. Yes- 
terday, Tuesday, the eighth of June, I bade them 
again farewell and took on the steamer Courier, 
my departure for Cincinnati to go from there 
further West in search of a home. Ho, for the 
West! Kind God, may ye will that I meet my 
anticipations and wishes. All I wish is a pleas- 
ant, yes a beautiful and healthy nook to live 
in, with a kind and loving wife to cheer me in 
the battle of life and loving children to surround 
and ease when once I journey the down hill 

93 



of life towards ??? — the grave — dissolution — the 
end of man? In short, I want Love in a Cottage. 
I arrived at Cincinnati on the morning of 
the tenth instant and took up lodgings at the 
Spencer House, one of the best and of course, 
dearest hotels in the city. This place surpassed 
my expectations which I had formed in regard 
to its industry, activity and wealth. Since my 
last visit here in eighteen fifty-two, the town 
has been greatly embellished by many beauti- 
ful buildings, both private and public. Among 
the latter those which deserve mention are the 
Custom House, and Post Office, the Court House 
and many beautiful churches, amongst which 
the Catholic Cathedral is the handsomest. Be- 
sides this, many new hotels — all of them fine 
houses, as also many imposing business houses 
have been erected of late years. The streets, 
at least in the main part of the town which I 
only ambulated, are laid out at right angles. 
Among those which run from the river, form- 
ing a right angle with the same, I noticed 
Broadway, Main, Sycamore, Walnut. These 
are intersected by the streets running parallel 
with the river numbered One, Two, Three, Four, 
etc. In short Cincinnati, with a population of 
200,000 and still increasing, has all the appear- 
ance of a thriving, wealthy, industrial and com- 
mercial city, and fills the position of such in the 
United States. It is especially famous for the 
millions of hogs killed and packed here annually. 

94 



From here, in the shape of shoulders, bacon 
and ham they are sent all over the United States 
and a large portion shipped via New Orleans 
to England. Opposite to Cincinnati, is New Port, 
Kentucky — also a thriving town. I stopT)ed here 
over night and left the eleventh at twelve 
o'clock on the steamer Jacob Stratton, the iSrst 
and only low pressure boat I ever saw on the 
Ohio, for Louisville, Kentucky. During last 
night it set in again raining and continued so 
all day — so that I had but little desire of being 
outside the cabin and consequently observed 
but little of the scenery along the river to 
Louisville. There are a number of thriving 
towns along the river— the principal of which 
is Madison, Indiana. The Big Miami river 
divides Ohio from Indiana. We lay over night 
at Louisville. The next morning I and my 
recently made acquaintance Mr. Charles N. 
Scram, went over the greater part of the city. 
Louisville belongs to Kentucky, situated on the 
Ohio river at the head of the celebrated falls 
of the Ohio. The latter are, except at high 
water, an obstruction to navigation to over- 
come which the two-mile long canal was built 
at enormous cost and boats go through it 
around the falls and strike again the Ohio 
below. Louisville counts a population of sixty 
thousand inhabitants and is of both commercial 
and industrial importance. It has several fine 
public buildings and the richness and beauty 

95 



and chastity of its many private buildings 
bespeak at once the wealth and taste of its 
occupants. Its streets are wide and it rejoices 
with Cincinnati in Avenues of trees now cov- 
ered with the richest of foliage. 

We delayed here till noon of the twelfth, 
when we again took the steamer Moses McLellan 
for St. Louis, Missouri. The rain still continued 
to fall and the Ohio river, as all the rivers 
throughout the country, continues to rise. They 
promise to cause by their overflow an incalcu- 
lable amount of damage to the crops in the bot- 
toms through which they now roll their courses 
with the wildest of turbulence. Last night, or 
rather, this morning, the rain has abated and 
thank God the sun once more radiates its 
genial beams. May it continue and its blessed 
warmth may yet reclaim many otherwise lost 
acres of grain. 

It is now Sunday, twelve o'clock and we have 
arrived three hundred and three miles from 
Louisville, having still three hundred and six- 
teen miles to St. Louis. We. shall probably get 
there tomorrow night. Thanks to my cursed 
mind, I have this last two days again been 
oppressed with the blues, what it will ever end 
in I don't know, possibly in suicide. Why was I 
ever made or why was I not endowed with a 
mind to make life desireful, pleasing and cheer- 
ful instead of the one I possess, which is in- 
capable to create a world for itself and too dull 

96 



and selfish to enjoy that of others? However, 
there is no help except — what can't be cured 
must be endured. 

Cairo, at the junction of the Mississippi and 
Ohio rivers, we reached Sunday evening. The 
flood has desolated much of this low^er country, 
destroying crops and homes and in fact all 
kinds of property it encountered in its sweep- 
ing course. Here it broke through the levee 
which had been builded at a cost of twelve 
millions of dollars and overran the whole town 
except a portion on the highest part of the Ohio 
levee. The damage is immense and general. 
All being sufferers by it, it is chance now whether 
it will ever be rebuilded. Its locality is such that 
it must always be at the mercy of the high 
floods which occur in these upper rivers period- 
ically. They may fail some years, but will 
only when they do come be so much more 
terrible in their destruction. We doubled the 
point and with a strong current against us, 
ran up stream. All the ))ottom along the river 
was covered with water, water, presenting one 
bright broad sheet of water variegated with 
forests of trees, in many places the roofs of 
homes being apparent only and many being 
entirely under water. 

We reached St. Louis Tuesday morning, the 
fifteenth instant. St. Louis is a stirring place, 
made so by its favourable location on the Mis- 
sissippi river. This river connects it with the 

97 



State of Missouri, Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota 
and Kansas, and with all the country on the 
lower Mississippi — principally New Orleans. 
This place will in a short time rival any inland 
town in the Union and eventually become the 
next largest city to New York. I stopped here 
almost two days, left it on the seventeenth of 
June for the Northern part of Missouri and 
Kansas. The trip up the Missouri is very 
tedious, the scenery being all the same all the 
way. Bluffs of little beauty and bottom lands 
covered with cotton wood. The river is very 
crooked and very rapid in its course. On both 
these accounts we made slow headway up nar- 
row chutes, around innumerable bends, past 
ever so many towns and villages. 

Sunday evening we got to Kansas City, 
Missouri. I laid over here the next day Mon- 
day, in order to see the place and find out 
something about its resources and prospects. 
While here I visited Wyandot on the North 
side of Kansas River, the same side as Kansas 
City on the Missouri. This is a very new free 
state settlement and although but of recent 
origin has many fine houses, stores and hotels. 
Possessing a very good site for a city with a 
good landing, it will be in time, when the 
resources of Kansas are developed, a thriving 
place. Kansas City is built on a bluff rising 
from the river bank and expensive grading was 
necessary to secure an area for houses. From 

98 



here streets are made by excavating through 
the bluffs to the best part of the city which lies 
back of the bluffs. This addition is quite new 
but springing up now very fast and will be- 
come in time a large city. 

I left Kansas City on Monday afternoon for 
Leavenworth and St. Joseph and reached the 
latter place on the twenty-fourth instant. I 
had been here in eighteen fifty-two, on my way 
to California. I remembered well enough its 
site but the town has changed very much since 
that time, having at least four times increased 
in its size and population. It is laid out in 
rectangular streets having on Second street 
an open place for the market house. There are 
already many fine buildings here and many 
more going up. Property has greatly enhanced 
in value on account of its unrivalled location. 
I stayed here several days making enquiry 
and gaining information as to the resources 
of the place and its adaptability to my business. 
The prospects held out to me were fair enough 
and I partly decided if I could not find a place 
suiting still better to return here and establish 
myself in business. 

I left this town for Leavenworth, seventy 
miles South of St. Joseph on the Missouri River. 
This is in Kansas and although only three 
years old has already attained a size and enjoys 
a large and growing commerce which rivals many 
a town of ten times its age. It is at present the 

99 



key port to Kansas Territory. Most of the 
business for the Territory is transacted here. 
Its location on the Missouri River secures it 
the connection with St. Louis and through it by 
the Grand Central Web of Railroads with all 
parts of the United States. The site for the 
town is good and back some distance from the 
river and right above the business part of the 
town, up the River, beautiful. 

This town holds out the same inducements 
to me to start business here as St. Joseph. It 
does now and I think always will lead St. 
Joseph in commercial importance and the fact 
of being in a free State will probably turn the 
scale in its favor in my decision between the 
two places. Leavenworth City at present is 
yet only three years old and grown as sudden 
as it has, everyone putting up buildings only 
studying to make the least outlay practicable 
for present purposes, the sanitary arrangements 
have of consequence been neglected and this 
I am satisfied in my mind will be the cause of 
severe sickness during this and the still coming 
scorching heat of Summer. This fact will prob- 
ably keep me off till Fall, when colder winds 
will purify the air from putrid exhalations. 

I started on a short trip inland, to see some- 
what more of the Territory than its outskirts, 
on the last day of June. This is certainly a 
lovely country to survey, bound to attract the 
admiration of any one in whose heart the least 

100 



drop of human kindness is not forever dried 
up. A living sea is the truest picture I can give 
of its appearance, the whole is a vast expanse 
of land, undulating, shifting, like the eternal 
thro wings of the Ocean. Here and there streams 
meandering along through some of its shallow 
curves, fringed with trees, add to the sublimity 
of the scene. But for me to portray this part 
of nature's face is a useless task. I can feel the 
grandeurs of it easier than to describe them. 

After passing through the reservation of the 
Delaware, we crossed the Kansas River and 
arrived at Lawrence, the first town this side of 
Leavenworth. I arrived just in time to hear 
of the acquittal of Jim Lame for the murder of 
Jennings. After a stay of an hour during which 
I promenaded once or twice through the only 
street which makes the present town, I took 
the stage for Topeka, twenty-five miles dis- 
tance. I had the pleasure of enjoying a right 
good thorough jolting, making the trip one of 
punishment instead of pleasure. After a long 
and tedious ride of nine hours, passing through 
Tecompton and Tecomseh, we arrived at two 
o'clock in the morning of the first of July in 
Topeka. I came here principallj'^ to buy hides, 
but could not find any here. This, like all the 
places here is quiet and at present very dull, 
being in fact at the lowest stage of commercial 
stagnation. I shall take the stage tomorrow^ at 
two A.M. for Leavenworth City. 

101 



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